The latest trend in the industry sees fashion houses shelving big names in favour of low-profile personalities as creative directors. Photo: Instagram/Sabato De Sarno
The fashion industry is witnessing its latest round of movements. When one creative head leaves a brand, it usually triggers a cascade of other exits (and new appointments).
Currently, fashion houses are favouring low-profile designers. They are picking artisans who are relatively unknown to the public.
For example, last week, Chloe chose Chemena Kamali to replace Gabriela Hearst as creative director.
While Kamali has had experience in the fashion industry – she was previously women’s design director at Saint Laurent and has worked for Chloe early in her career, her name probably does not ring a bell.
Sean McGirr, who replaced Sarah Burton as creative head at Alexander McQueen, is a relatively unknown name in the fashion industry. Photo: Instagram/Alexander McQueenThis is in comparison to Hearst, who already had her own fashion label before she joined Chloe in 2020.
Having made sustainability part of her identity, she had raked in accolades all over the world prior to the job.
Read more: Chemena Kamali heads Chloe, in the latest of low-profile fashion appointments
The Alexander McQueen label recently appointed a little-known newcomer to the position of creative director – Sean McGirr.
McGirr was head of ready-to-wear at JW Anderson prior to that. He also had stints at Dries Van Noten and Burberry. However, mention his name and you will probably not get any response of recognition.
McGirr, however, has big shoes to fill. His predecessor Sarah Burton, had served in her position since 2010.
Burton is definitely a big star. She won “Designer of the Year” at the 2011 British Fashion Awards, and was conferred an OBE in 2012 for her services to the British fashion industry.
Burton also designed the wedding dress of Catherine Middleton for her marriage to Prince William in 2011.
Just this week, Moschino announced that David Renne will replace Jeremy Scott as creative director. Renne is relatively unknown name, unlike Scott with his larger-than-life persona.
Risk or reward?
The trend of low-profile appointments is a big change from the past, where such top posts were reserved for famous designers.
When big names like Alessandro Michele and Hedi Slimane join a fashion house, they bring over their hordes of fans, and may even alter the DNA of the brand to their preference and interpretation.
This could be why companies are steering clear of “celebrity” designers, because upon their exit, they leave behind a void almost impossible to fill.
Chemena Kamali has had considerable experience in fashion, but she keeps a low profile. Photo: Instagram/ChloeWhen Michele left Gucci last year, the news reverberated in the industry. It was like a shock – especially to his devout followers. The brand was worried that they would also leave, along with him.
His replacement, Sabato De Sarno, has a quieter presence, leading up to questions whether he could conjure up the same excitement as Michele did.
There is also the risk of scandals when big-names are hired.
Kanye West’s fallout is a good cautionary tale. Although he was never appointed to head a fashion house, he has collaborated with brands for exclusive collections.
When his incendiary remarks on social media broke last year, his designs were shunned and taken off shelves.
Read more: Fashion label Moschino appoints Davide Renne as new creative director
Back in 2011, Dior was forced to sack famed designer John Galliano from his post as creative director after he made racist remarks in an apparent drunken bout.
The belief is that the bigger the personality, the bigger the risk in taking on that person as a figurehead. Also, flamboyance is often equated with being outspoken, and it is harder to control what they may say, even in their personal capacity.
That said, Louis Vuitton’s choosing of musician Pharrell Williams as menswear creative director bucks this trend.
Since the announcement in February and up until his first Paris Fashion Week runway show in June, Williams has whipped up a frenzy – making headlines and generating social media buzz.
This shows that celebrity appointments still bring about that much-valued publicity, but most fashion houses are steering clear from it at the moment.
