WITH a beautifully restrained appearance that belies its complex engineering, a Breguet watch is the mark of a discerning collector.
One of the oldest watch brands still in existence, Breguet was founded in Paris in 1775.
It is believed that few individual watchmakers could rival Abraham-Louis Breguet for his key contributions to the craft of horology.
In those early days, he pioneered many of the components that are central to watchmaking today -- he invented the tourbillon, developed self-winding pocket-watches, and set the template for the modern chronograph.
Vintage rose engines on display at the Breguet boutique in Geneva. — Photos: Breguet
A symbol of elegance and technical precision, Breguet timepieces have been winning over powerful and famous admirers since the end of 18th century.
Probably the first keen fan of Breguet, Queen Marie-Antoinette wore some of the watchmaker’s most beautiful watches, such as the self-winding models, right from the beginning of her reign and showcased their excellence to the courts of Europe.
It is said that Abraham-Louis created the famous No.160 watch for her, the so-called “Marie-Antoinette”; it remained the most complicated watch in the history of watchmaking for a long time.
Breguet Manufacture in Switzerland.
Breguet was also well-known for creating timepieces for historical figures such as Napoleon Bonaparte, Czar Alexander, King George IV and other nobles of the world.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, given how 200 plus years later, technical and aesthetic watchmaking innovations remain core to the brand.
Emmanuel Breguet, a 7th generation descendant of Abraham-Louis, says: “The Breguet brand, to me at least, is a treasure and a piece of the human patrimony because it is a unique brand with a long history that was started by a genius.”
Marine Chronograph.
This unbreakable link to its rich history in watchmaking has inspired, as it should, what Breguet has become today.
But tradition and heritage must be seen in context. Abraham-Louis was arguably one of the greatest watchmakers who ever lived, but what made him tower over not only his peers during his lifetime but also those following was his immense drive to invent and create.
Breguet, The Innovator
“We have many testimonies about Breguet, the history of a man who revolutionised watchmaking in terms of archives and timepieces,” shares Emmanuel, who is vice-president and head of patrimony at Montres Breguet.
“He was a designer that changed everything in terms of design, technique and technology.
Artisans in Breguet’s guilloche workshop are continuing the tradition of guilloche decoration in watchmaking.
“In addition to that, he created a network where he was known in many countries, even as far as Istanbul where he made special pieces with old Turkish numerals to be adapted to the Ottoman empire.
“He once made for an Ottoman Sultan the most expensive piece ever made by Breguet − the Sympathique clock, a watch and a clock full of precious stones.
“And these pieces are still visible (not the watch though), the clock is at the Topkapi Palace Museum in Istanbul,” he highlights.
The famous Breguet archives house the details of every watch sold since the end of 18th century.
Breguet craftsmanship blends micromechanical engineering with artistry.
Breguet’s exquisite artisanry never fails to impress.
“Breguet invented many things...some visible designs like the tourbillon, which is a Breguet patent.
“He also invented hidden inventions, like the Breguet overcoil, the gong spring for repeating watches,” says Emmanuel, author of several bo
A classic hump-backed carriage clock by Breguet.oks.
The long road that leads to the summit of watchmaking is approached from different angles.
In fact, at Breguet, it has always involved two climbs to the top – mastering the mechanics and the aesthetics.
The latter is a field more complex than it seems, requiring not only valuable know-how but also ceaseless efforts to keep it up to date.
As such, the House of Breguet is one of the few to have developed internal workshops for engraving, anglage, enameling and guillochage.
This represents a significant deployment of skills, the purpose of which is, of course, to decorate each and every watch, thus giving it a unique character.
But it is also about training and recruiting new talents to these crafts.
Right from the start, Abraham-Louis pursued and spearheaded the two avenues at once, enjoying inventing new mechanical devices as well as imagining a more original style that was more in tune with watchmaking at the time.
Emmanuel: ‘Never copy the past but go beyond the work of the founder.’ — CHAN TAK KONG/The Star
In the last quarter of the 18th century, when decorative arts had already largely turned towards neoclassicism, watches were still stuck in the baroque and even rococo styles: bulging cases bearing rich engravings, with hands featuring volutes and arabesques, resulting in a rather freighted and hectic artistic expression.
A rare Breguet pocket watch.
Inspiration From the Past
Next year is a significant year for Breguet – which is now headquartered in Switzerland with its workshops in Vallée de Joux – as the brand is celebrating its 250th anniversary.
“Breguet is not only relevant during the life of its founder but continues to be throughout the years.
“Some unique inventions have been made long after the founder passed, especially at the end of the 19th century and early 20th century, such as watches for aviation and the navy,” says Emmanuel.
“Of course, for a historian like me, the most significant moment for the company is its beginning, the life of the founder who is the father of modern watchmaking and so many other things.
The caseback of Classique 5711 Grand Feu Blue Enamel.
“I hope next year, the 250th will also be a significant moment for the brand,” he adds.
So how does Breguet balance its long-standing traditions with being relevant to watch enthusiasts today?
“The heritage of the brand is very relevant today, as we balance keeping the most important historical aesthetics and codes of Breguet’s technology and craftsmanship while being free to innovate by continuing to improve, especially when it comes to the movements of the watch.
“Never copy the past but go beyond the work of the founder,” Emmanuel emphasises.
“Our unique history sets us apart.
“What we say, we can prove it.
An enamel and diamond hunter-case ‘petite souscription’ à tact watch, made for former empress of France, Josephine Bonaparte. An “a tact” watch tells time through touch.
“We are very strict in the way we tell the story. For our clients, we are something very special. We not only offer them beautiful watches, but also a piece of history.
“Today, it’s very important for our clientele to not only buy well-made objects but a piece of patrimony with authenticity,” he says proudly.
Breguet’s present inspiration from the past is not simply modern recreation of the maison’s inventions and designs, but the passion to devote just as tirelessly as its founder did to invention and innovation.
Artisans at the House of Breguet continue to make unique works of art that bear witness to the brand’s rich history.
That really is its true legacy – an endless quest to expand the frontiers of watchmaking.
