THE watches unveiled by Panerai this year mark a significant milestone in the brand’s pursuit of perfection while staying true to its core values.
But many may not know that despite having a Swiss headquarters and parent company, Panerai will never stop flying the Italian flag.
After all, its origins in the latter country are key to its design philosophies.
And so, Panerai once again celebrates its link to Luna Rossa, the Italian sailing team that first saw watch releases in 2021 which was the year they won the Prada Cup.
To bring this excitement closer to its fans in Malaysia, Panerai Southeast Asia and Oceania managing director Lesley Co was in Kuala Lumpur to present its standout pieces from Watches and Wonders 2024 Geneva.
Panerai Submersible Luna RossaQuara
Panerai’s new Luna Rossa watches belong to the Submersible family, featuring a new material the brand calls Ti-Ceramitech. This is a titanium alloy that has undergone a patented titanium “ceramisation” process through electrolytic plasma oxidation, resulting in the case’s handsome blue hue.
According to Panerai, the process turns the surface of the titanium alloy into a dense ceramic layer, improving the material’s hardness; Ti-Ceramitech is 44% lighter than steel and has a fracture toughness 10 times higher than traditional ceramic.
The Ti-Ceramitech case of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa PAM01466 measures 44mm (quaranta quattro is Italian for 44) in diameter and is water-resistant to 500m.
They’re furnished with the signature semi-circular crown guard protector, operated via a lever.
The unidirectional bezel is also fashioned from Ti-Ceramitech while the caseback is made from micro-sandblasted titanium.
Beneath that caseback lies the Caliber P.900 automatic movement with a three-day power reserve.
The 4.2mm-thick caliber operates at 28,800 beats per hour and includes 171 components, 23 jewels and a single barrel.
The watch also features a blue sun-brushed dial generously accented with Super-LumiNova for optimal in-the-dark legibility.
The dial layout is traditional Submersible with a pair of large skeletonised hands at the centre, a running seconds indicator at 9 o’clock, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a mix of round and rounded baton hour markers.
Finally, the Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01466 is also fitted with rubber and blue textile straps, which are colour-matched to the case and feature a red stripe down the centre with the Luna Rossa name. The straps are finished with a trapezoidal micro-sandblasted titanium pin buckle.
Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Goldtech
The new Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Goldtech is an incredibly luxurious timepiece that features Goldtech – Panerai’s proprietary alloy of rose gold made with platinum and copper, which ensures a high lustre that doesn’t tarnish easily.
Certainly, it makes for a particularly intense colour, especially on the polished bezel!
The rest of the 40mm case is brushed to provide a nice degree of contrast.
The watch’s water resistance is 100m, which is much smaller than Panerai’s thoroughbred dive watches but it further emphasises the luxe dress watch design.
Completing the aesthetics of the Luminor Quaranta BiTempo Goldtech is a sunray brushed sandwich dial in black.
The almost gloss-like finish will remind one of obsidian volcanic glass, which contrasts with gold and gives the watch a sharp impact looks-wise.
There’s a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock while the central hand stack consists of hour, minute and a second 12-hour hand for displaying a second time zone.
It essentially functions in the same manner as a GMT complication, without the additional 24-hour scale, and is what gives the watch the BiTempo moniker, meaning dual time.
Finally, beneath the dial is the P.900/GMT automatic calibre that comes with a three-day power reserve, making this timepiece absolutely weekend proof!
Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar
Panerai also introduced the PAM01364 to its Radiomir Annual Calendar collection at this year’s Watches and Wonder.
The new watch’s cushion-shaped 45mm case is also made of Platinumtech, a platinum alloy that Panerai says is “harder than conventional platinum, with enhanced physical properties” and consequently undergoes a manual polishing process.
Meanwhile, mounted to the case is a thin bezel with a mirror-like polished finish.
This is essentially the same classic design seen throughout most of the Radiomir collection.
But a recessed pusher, which allows the user to adjust the annual calendar, is placed on the left side aligned near the 8 o’clock spot.
On the flip side is a sapphire crystal caseback that allows a view into the inner workings of the mechanical movement.
It showcases several jewels, golden gears and an oscillating weight.
The watch also features the iconic thin wire-style lugs – a standard characteristic of Radiomir models – and comes equipped with a knurled setting-crown embossed with the “OP” logo.
All of it is topped by a domed sapphire crystal.
The watch is also water-resistant up to a depth of 100m.
The watch’s green sun-brushed dial, adorned with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, is both elegant and functional, ensuring optimal legibility in any lighting condition.
The annual calendar complication, a testament to Panerai’s horological ingenuity, effortlessly displays the month, day of the week, and date at 3 o’clock, while the small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock adds a subtle touch of dynamism.
Completing the timepiece is a hand-stitched dark brown alligator strap, measuring 27/22mm and secured with a buckle, ensuring a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.