Great outdoors: Menswear takes on the wilderness with utilitarian collections


The 'quiet luxury' trend heads outdoors with technical wear designs, but made to channel a luxurious feel. Photo: Loro Piana

The idea of a stylish man being all prim and proper is taking a backseat this season. Fashion has now moved on to celebrating outdoorsy designs.

Loro Piana, known for being the poster child of “quiet luxury”, launched its first outdoor line in June.

Named Into The Wild, the designs include everything you may need for a camping trip – from hooded parkas and rainproof capes, to trousers, shorts and accessories.

This is a big contrast from the usual Loro Piana offerings: think cashmere sweaters that a guy would only wear to cocoon at home, while it’s raining outside.

The current season's menswear is inspired by the great outdoors. Models are seen walking with Wellington boots on the runway. Photo: FendiThe current season's menswear is inspired by the great outdoors. Models are seen walking with Wellington boots on the runway. Photo: FendiThe Fendi Autumn/Winter 2024 collection also plays on the outdoors theme.

Read more: How menswear trends combine statement-making flair with play-it-cool style

Fisherman’s coats, waxed trench coats and canvas bombers – outerwear is currently a main focus for the fashion house. During the runway show, models were seen walking with Wellington boots.

Yet, Fendi just can’t help but throw in a few chic pieces to maintain the luxurious image it is known for. There is an overcoat of fringed mohair that looks fabulous enough to be worn for an evening party.

The trend of appropriating outerwear as fashion staples is known as “gorpcore”. With this, technical and utility wear are elevated into the realm of high fashion.

Brands like Moncler, Patagonia and The North Face have been embraced by fashion lovers, and given the same status as luxury labels like Ermenegildo Zegna, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani and Bally.

In February, Moncler took over a snowy forest in Switzerland to put on a fashion show for its Grenoble line of skiwear.

The grandiosity and pomp afforded by such a setup rivals that of Chanel – a fashion house known for its extremely elaborate runway presentations.

It should be noted that Moncler has been investing a lot in its fashion shows for several years now, but this only serves to highlight how big the outdoors trend has become.

Back in 2020, The North Face held a special event during Paris Fashion Week to debut its Black Series range. This is seen as sort of a crossing between “couture” and technical sportswear, with a pairing of advanced materials and technologies with sleek, modern silhouettes.

Read more: Classic, not trendy: Menswear evolves, but traditional looks still favoured

Rising fashion designer Reese Cooper (he debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2018 and was a finalist for the 2019 CFDA Vogue Fashion fund) dropped a collection just last week in collaboration with US retailer PacSun.

It is inspired by the great outdoors.

“As someone who has always been in awe of the outdoors, especially living in California, I wanted this collection to be as accessible as possible like the environments it is inspired by,” reads Cooper’s press statement.

His designs are made with technical fabrics like nylon, sherpa fleece, waffle knits, heavyweight cottons and compression.

They tell the story of enthusiasts having fun and exploring nature – but looking well-put together in terms of dressing, that is.

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