Experts say dermaplanning can lead to "irritation, the penetration of allergens or pathogens and the loss of moisture". Photo: dpa
TikTok is telling us women to grab a razor and shave all that peach fuzz right off your face.
What, just like a man, you say?
Almost, say beauty influencers promising a baby's-bottom visages with dermaplaning. Dermatologists have their doubts.
Whether smooth legs or hairless armpits – it's nothing new for women to repeatedly reach for the blade to get rid of unwanted hair. But now – according to a current skincare trend – the face should be part of that shaving plan.
Dermaplaning is the name of the phenomenon that is doing the rounds on social media platforms like TikTok. Some 2.8 million #dermaplaning posts can currently be found on Instagram alone.
The majority of young women taking part are using razors or scalpels to remove the fine hairs on their forehead, cheeks, chin and nose.
Many use white dry shampoo for shaving so that even the smallest hairs are visible.
Dermaplaning is also offered as a facial treatment in some beauty salons.
What does facial shaving actually do?
The promise: Dermaplaning has dermatologically proven benefits, ensures smooth, clean skin and makes skincare products work better.
The reality: This is only partly true. Experts advise against it.
The facts: According to dermatologist Yael Adler, dermaplaning is "not a scientifically proven or recommended method."
Sliding a scalpel or razor over the face not only removes downy hairs, but also dead skin cells and the top layer of the skin barrier.
This initially makes the face look smoother, explains Adler in an interview.
"However, the skin barrier is something that we need, that we actually want to keep stable, that we don't want to thin out," says the Berlin-based dermatologist.
This is because the natural barrier protects against external influences and supplies the skin with lipids and moisture.
Read more: Ask The Expert: Keeping a clean head begins with the scalp
If the barrier is weakened, it can lead to "irritation, the penetration of allergens or pathogens and the loss of moisture."
Dermatologist Ulrich Ohnemus in Hamburg explains that robust skin usually copes well with such shaving. In such cases, dermaplaning can have a beautifying effect.
"After removing the hairs, the skin is smoother and therefore reflects light better, which can ultimately help to create more radiant skin."
In the case of small, harmless blackheads, shaving sometimes acts like a peeling.
"This allows the sebum to drain better and may result in fewer blackheads or small pimples."
However, "for sensitive skin and people who don't use it properly", there is a risk of injury and inflammation.
According to Ohnemus and Adler, using a razor is not a good idea if you have problems with your skin.
"You shouldn't do this if you have acne, as you could shave the pimples open and make the inflammation worse. This increases the risk of scarring and infection. Pus bacteria, herpes and wart viruses can be spread," explains Adler.
"I would advise against the treatment if you have irritated skin," says Ohnemus.
Smooth skin, but no rapid regeneration
Beauty influencers also say shaving your face stimulates skin regeneration and that the cells regenerate quickly.
However, as Adler explains, removing the hairs does not have this effect.
"If you remove the dead layer on top, the cells of the living layer don't even notice that this has happened up there, and therefore there is no effect on the regeneration of the skin."
The hair roots are also not affected and don't grow back any differently.
The outermost layer of the epidermis, which is the skin's first barrier of protection, is sometimes known as the "horny layer" (or stratum corneum) because cells there are tough, like an animal's horn.
The regeneration time of the epidermis, during which the cells migrate from the basal cell layer to the upper horny layer, is around four to six weeks, explains Ohnemus.
If the upper horny layer is removed, the process is "not necessarily accelerated, but the upper horny cells are detached, which leads to a certain smoothing effect."
Care products have a stronger effect
Adler and Ohnemus agree that skincare products can have a better effect after shaving.
"If you thin out the upper layer of skin, it is indeed the case that active ingredients from skincare products come closer to the deeper cell layers of the epidermis," says Adler.
The "penetration of certain substances is accelerated by the damage to the barrier function," explains Ohnemus.
However, there is a risk that skincare products can cause irritation. Especially if intolerances are already present or the face is dry or sensitive.
"These substances can suddenly reach the immune cells in the epidermis and sensitize them. These cells then go to the lymph node stations and activate the immune system."
Sometimes contact allergies develop with redness, inflammation, pimples, blisters and itching.
Read more: Sunburn as acne treatment? Skin doctors caution against trying this beauty trend
Beware of skin care trends
Using dry shampoo for shaving is often part of dermaplaning. However, this does not make sense – on the contrary, says Adler.
"There is no medical benefit to using dry shampoo, apart from the fact that it looks cool."
The doctor explains that this hair product "binds oil and dries out, contains silicones, preservatives, solvents, alcohol and allergens and sometimes carcinogenic fragrances".
Dry shampoo is "definitely too aggressive for delicate facial skin and can even clog the pores".
Adler is generally sceptical about trends such as dermaplaning.
"A lot of social media trends are copied in the hope that they will do something. You use a lot of products, you use procedures, you spend money and, if you're lucky, no damage is done."
With a bit of bad luck, however, "you get a contact allergy, inflammation or irritation – and you've lost money". – dpa
