Patchwork designs were seen at the opening of the largest Levi's store in South-East Asia. They show how denim can be modish, modern and edgy. Photo: The Star/ART CHEN
Denim is making a big return this year. The revival of Y2K trends (from the decade spanning 1995 to 2004) has shifted the fabric back into fashion’s spotlight.
Denim-on-denim outfits – at times, frowned upon for being kitschy – is cool again. Denim bags are being touted as a vital accessory too.
Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner are among the celebrities hyping up excitement. By styling denim clothing in various chic ways, they show that the trend is not only meant for cowboys.
Big fashion houses like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Schiaparelli have also presented luxurious denim designs on runways.
But perhaps, specialty denim brands are the ones that would know best about what’s in or out.
“Right now, we’re seeing a shift towards more relaxed, comfortable fits like loose and baggy styles, which particularly resonate with younger or more fashion-forward consumers,” comments Levi’s general manager for Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei, and country manager for Malaysia, Imran Butt.
Butt agrees that there is indeed a denim renaissance happening worldwide, and as such, Levi’s is doubling down on its core business of selling head-to-toe denim lifestyle apparel.
“Innovating with the times is part of our brand’s DNA,” he however adds, regarding the importance of adapting to trends.
Levi’s recently opened its largest South-East Asia store in the heart of Kuala Lumpur.
Colourful patchwork designs were presented during the launch event. These show how denim can be modish, modern and edgy.
As for the idea that wearing denim clothing is very much a Western thing, Butt says it has universal appeal.
“Across different communities, denim transcends cultural boundaries and is embraced by everyone for its versatility and enduring appeal,” he stresses.
Read more: Welcome the season of denim, cowboy hats and boots! Western style is trending
A diverse world
While fashion lovers tend to focus on an apparel’s cut and silhouette, denim enthusiasts look at details such as a fabric’s wash, stitching, or hardware like rivets.
What makes for a coveted denim piece is different in the eyes of dedicated collectors.
Despite what most people would assume, the 1990s may not be the defining fashion decade for denim too.
“For me, it will always be the 1950s,” shares Roy Ho. “Just picture Marilyn Monroe or Elvis Presley – they were the ones who helped popularise denim during that time.”
Roy, who has been collecting denim clothing for 12 years, values rarity. He does not just think about whether a design is trendy or not.
“One of the special pieces from my collection is a kid’s coveralls. It was produced in 1912, so it’s considered an antique piece. There are not more than 10 such pieces in Malaysia,” he relates.
Another collector, Ho Jia Jiong, appreciates elements like how the fabric of some designs can appear faded or distressed.
“I’m not like other collectors though. I do look at the fit and design,” he admits.
Luxury brands have embraced denim, incorporating the material into chic designs. Photo: Schiaparelli
A jeans jacket is not just for cowboys. Photo: Louis Vuitton
Earlier this year, fashion magazines proclaimed that skinny jeans will be back as a hot style this year. Jia Jiong rubbishes the idea.
“I don’t think so,” he says, laughing. “I believe the baggy look is still going strong.”
Jia Jiong started collecting denim apparel in 2019. He thinks the scene in Malaysia is growing, but lags behind neighbouring countries like Thailand – or further away in Asia, Japan.
According to him, the popularity of denim does not differ much between generations.
“The older folks love it as being something classic, but for the youths, they probably see it from a practical point of view. Denim can be comfortable,” he comments.
For Zaha Solleh, he was first attracted to denim eight years ago for the fashion aspect. He then started collecting vintage pieces.
“Every decade, you will notice differences in how denim clothing are crafted. For example, certain stitching is specific to certain years,” he says.
Zaha is now fascinated with denim, taking pleasure in reading more and learning about its varied history.
Denim apparel is a mainstay. Matching denim with denim is now cool again. Photo: Levi's“Sometimes you will notice that even the coloured threads used for contrast stitching is different between the ‘eras’,” he adds.
Read more: Despite the fashion stigma, 'double denim' is here to stay as a key trend
Forever iconic
In all its diversity, what denim can offer is probably a freedom of expression.
Denim clothing comes in all forms – jeans, skirts, jackets, dungarees, shirt dresses and much more. Whether you subscribe to trends or not, there will be a design that fits your lifestyle.
Another big draw regarding denim is the option to customise. This is where someone adds on embroidery, patches or fabric panelling to their beloved apparel.
Denim restoration, in which repairs are carried out to extend the life of clothing, can also work to add character to a certain piece.
There is the belief that a pair of jeans looks better with age. Scuff marks or fraying can only give it a distinctive attitude – and make for a good story to tell.
In a time where fashion lovers value individuality and sustainability, this is where denim shines.
Back in the 1800s, denim was seen as just workwear. Then it became part of pop culture, linked to the music industry (rock and country genres) and the MTV phenomenon.
Certain films are even remembered for the characters wearing denim or having a denim clothing as central to the plot: Grease (1978), Dazed And Confused (1993) or The Sisterhood Of The Traveling Pants (2005).
“We’ve definitely seen denim trends evolve with time, but what has never changed is how it’s still considered a staple part of the wardrobe,” Butt says.
He adds that Malaysians have truly made denim their own by embracing the country’s rich multiculturalism.
“Denim here seamlessly transitions between being a modern staple and something that complements traditional celebrations, making it versatile across the local fashion scene,” Butt concludes.
