Driven by tales of the deep

Horizon’s Pilgrim Blue Ocean.

ALMOST a decade ago when he was barely in his 20s but armed with a firm grasp on 3D design, Ukrainian watch designer Fred Bekher took on a job to design a timepiece.

The task was commissioned by a contact he had only met online and who lives half-a-world away in Singapore.

“That was the first time I started working together with Sugi Kusumadi (of watch retailer Red Army Watches).

“His is an organisation with over 15 years’ experience in the watch industry, and with a plethora of watch microbrands in its management portfolio,” recalls Bekher happily.

Expanding horizons

Now, Bekher sits at the head of his own microbrand – Horizon.

Bekher designing the Nautilus watch for his Horizon brand.

And while his brand is relatively new on the scene, Bekher is not; he‘s now a seasoned veteran in the microbrand space, having designed watches for numerous brands such as Zelos, Arcturus, Velhelm, Gruppo Gamma, and Feynman Timekeepers over the past decade.

Horizon has been very prolific and had previously unveiled two successful designs over a span of just two years, each drawing inspiration from the literary works of the French science-fiction master Jules Verne.

The company has carefully chosen design elements that echo the adventurous tales found in the epic Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea – each distinctively crafted with a coherent narrative that spans the nautical-inclined collection.

Under the sea

The first, dubbed “N” (for Nautilus), is a divers watch christened after Captain Nemo’s own submarine from the classic tale.

“N” was followed by the Pilgrim which is a super-compressor style divers watch, also with plenty of elements referencing the Jules Verne story.

Bekher spending quality time with his daughter.

Bekher says that from a young age, he’s had a passion for drawing, always seeking inspiration from illustrations found in tales from yesteryear.

“I remember one day, while browsing through a collection of books, I stumbled upon a very old edition of the Jules Verne novel.

“Its cover depicted a submarine entangled in the tentacles of a giant octopus and this, over the years, inspired me to read many more of his works.

“This took me on a journey that culminated in 2020, when it inspired me to create our first Horizon collection,” he says.

Tasteful design

Now, his latest creation − the Nemo −advances even further the thematic concept introduced by its predecessors, offering a more refined and elegant design complete with attractive dial options and an excellent bracelet.

“All our designs are connected by a distinct, cohesive style,” continues Bekher.

Horizon’s debut series – Nautilus or simply known as N. This is the Cardinal Red dial variant with bronze case and vulcanised rubber strap.

“From the beginning, this concept was crafted to establish a clear and recognisable brand identity.

“While the unique case designs and dial elements may appear different at first glance, there’s an unmistakable sense of a unified vision behind them.

“Moving forward, we plan to evolve this style in even fresher and bolder ways,” says the designer.

So it’s no surprise that the brand new Nemo’s meticulously crafted case simply epitomises Horizon’s design philosophy.

Measuring 40mm in diameter with a 38mm bezel, a lug-to-lug span of 47mm and a height of 12mm, this watch strikes a balance between presence and comfort.

Horizon’s Pilgrim Ocean range has a visual of a sailing ship and whale on its caseback.

The case is constructed from 316L stainless steel and features a multi-part design that allows for a sophisticated array of finishing techniques, particularly on the lugs, where a careful mix of satin brushed and high polished surfaces highlight the intricate craftsmanship.

The watch has a lug width of 22mm, which further adds to its bold presence on the wrist.

Then, the watch’s bezel opts for a more traditional approach with a coin-edge grip enhancing the 120-click unidirectional dive mechanism.

It is capped with an insert under a sapphire layer reminiscent of vintage Bakelite dive watches, combining classic style with modern functionality.

Further enhancing its utility, the watch also has a vintage-style boxed sapphire crystal adorned with ample anti-reflective coating, subtly distorting at the edges for an added touch of character.

The Horizon Pilgrim watch’s case is 41mm in diameter, 12.4mm high and measures 47mm lug to lug.

The timepiece’s dial design is also outstanding, featuring a well-executed brushed metallic base and an outer minute track designed to enhance legibility, marking five-minute intervals and individual seconds or minutes in a clear, black print.

The design highlights include boldly applied hour markers at the cardinal points styled to resemble sea shells, thus fitting the nautical theme perfectly.

These are complemented by large, circular maxi-style hour markers that enhance the overall readability.

Options, options

Available in seven dial and bezel configurations, the Nemo presents a diverse range of aesthetic choices.

Tools of the trade for Bekher, founder of Horizon brand.

This variety includes three distinctive dial textures and seven different colours.

The watch also balances originality with a sense of familiarity, making it appealing to those who may typically shy away from overly experimental designs.

Its case and bezel offer a conventional appearance that provides a grounding effect, perhaps making it more accessible to a wider audience.

“Ultimately, we deliberately ensured that the Nemo’s appearance doesn’t scream for attention.

“Yes, we wanted the new watch to resemble a traditional diver’s watch at first glance,” says Bekher.

“This means that even the branding on the watch is subtly integrated, with the logo positioned below the 12 o’clock marker and the watch name above the 6 o’clock index, both printed with precision,” he adds.

But perhaps the most exciting feature of the Nemo is the innovatively designed date window at the 4 o’clock position.

This isn’t just a typical run-of-the mill date counter, mind you! It actually mimics the height and dimensions of the hour markers and matches the colour of the indices, with a font that harmonises with the bezel, showcasing exceptional attention to detail and design coherence.

In the end, more than anything else, Bekher feels that the Nemo is the culmination of years spent pushing boundaries in a unique creative segment within the watchmaking industry.

“Working in the microbrand space over the past decade has been a unique and rewarding journey,” he reflects.

“Along the way, I’ve met some incredibly interesting people, and we often found ourselves starting from scratch, with little experience or knowledge of what we were about to take on.

“Imagine getting a message from the factory saying that a key feature of the design is impossible to execute, when that very element is what the entire concept is built around!

“That is when the flexibility and creativity associated with the microbrand movement comes to the fore, and a great solution always presents itself to tie things up nicely,” he concludes.