A Parmigiani Fleurier watchmaker at work.
Parmigiani Fleurier redefines contemporary elegance with the launch of its new Toric collection, a harmonious blend of understated luxury and modern style.
This collection encapsulates the evolving codes of masculine sophistication, where timeless craftsmanship meets a liberated, effortless approach to dressing.
The new Toric captures the spirit of today’s sartorial ethos – a seamless fusion of refinement and versatility.
Whether paired with a perfectly tailored suit or a relaxed cashmere sweater, the Toric is an effortless extension of the wearer, reflecting the rhythm of modern life.
The traditional markers of power have evolved; yesterday’s stiff collars and formal attire have given way to a more nuanced expression of influence – Brunello Cucinelli tees, Loro Piana loafers and now, the Toric.
This timepiece is not just an accessory but a statement of style that resonates with the liberated codes of contemporary luxury, where sophistication is defined by personal expression rather than rigid formality.
The Toric collection features movements crafted from 18k rose gold, a rarity in high-end watchmaking.
The Toric collection profoundly redefines the classic watch, blending artisanal excellence with traditional craftsmanship.
This mastery in watchmaking is revered by discerning collectors and enthusiasts of exclusive, rareand discreet high-end timepieces. Reviving a forgotten art
Grenage is an ancient decorative dial technique, forgotten and revived by Michel Parmigiani.
It involves applying a mixture of tartar cream, sea salt ground with a glass pestle, and silver.
Demineralised water is used to create an easy-to-work amalgam spread over the surface with a horn spoon.
The dial is rubbed with round movements in all directions using special brushes.
As silver is photosensitive, it’s essential to work in semidarkness, not bright sunlight.
The craftsman starts with a stiff brush, which gives the colour of lead.
At Parmigiani Fleurier, a much finer, softer brush which bristles bend easily is used to achieve a denser, whiter grain.
The dial then begins to be covered with silver particles that stick to the material.
Toric Petite Seconde with a 40.6mm platinum case (left) and rose gold case. Both are completed by grey celadon, hand-stitched nubuck-treated alligator leather strap.
After all, grene comes from “grain”: tiny grains accumulated next to each other.
Gold at its heart
Exceptional collections demand exceptional movements, and Parmigiani Fleurier excels in this domain.
The Toric collection – consisting of the Chronographe Rattrapante and Petite Seconde – showcases this mastery.
Both models feature movements crafted from 18karat rose gold, a rarity in luxury watchmaking, and Parmigiani Fleurier is among the few brands to utilise this precious metal.
Using gold in the movement provides structural rigidity, though it presents challenges due to its malleability compared to the steel or brass commonly used by other brands.
These base metals pose no risk of mechanical malfunctions, making Parmigiani Fleurier’s choice of gold a testament to their commitment to excellence.
The Chronographe Rattrapante’s bridges are openworked, while the manufacture movement is meticulously chiselled, shaped and decorated to the highest standards of watchmaking tradition.
The art of skeletonisation, which involves removing material without compromising the functional rigidity of the components, adds to the complexity.
When done on 18karat rose gold, the result is both delicate and spectacular.
The bridges form a harmonious ensemble of precious arabesques, satin-finished and bevelled by hand, enhancing the overall aesthetic.
The Toric Petite Seconde watch features an 18karat rose gold movement with a unique treatment.
Toric Petite Seconde
Instead of skeletonisation, it boasts two bridges designed as architectural elements, integral to the watch’s overall aesthetic.
The decoration and finishing uphold Parmigiani Fleurier’s esteemed reputation.
The bridges are adorned with the Cotes de Fleurier guilloche pattern, derived from the crossed Cotes de Geneve.
This intricate guilloche work is meticulously executed to the brand’s exacting standards.
The 18karat rose gold plates are incised using an antique cam-operated guilloche machine, starkly contrasting with modern electronically controlled machines.
Each piece requires patience, sensitivity and experience to achieve the final result.
Here, the human hand takes precedence, maintaining the same technical gestures as the guilloche-makers of past centuries.
This dedication to traditional craftsmanship ensures each watch is a masterpiece of artisanal excellence.
Gold movements are rare in high-end watchmaking.
The Toric Chronograph Rattrapante’s movement beats at a high frequency (5Hz) and incorporates a double-column wheel. Its structural elements, skeletonised to suggest an arabesque, leave ample room for visual appreciation of its moving components.
This genuine competition-class machine invites an absolute immersion in gold, concealing a world-class masterpiece calibre but in a resolutely haute horlogerie iteration.
This movement integrates 285 components, 35 jewels and a 65-hour power reserve.
The tenth-of-a-second precision and the challenge of shaping such a malleable material as gold are assets that every devotee of the finest watchmaking will appreciate.
It is a tribute to the zenith of horological artistry.
It’s not just a movement; it’s a narrative of passion, expertise and the relentless pursuit of perfection.
Italian expertise
The Toric collection embodies a concentration of know-how and added value in all its elements.
The strap, often overlooked, is given full prominence in this collection, treated with the same reverence as the gold movements and hand-grained dials.
Crafting the nubuck strap mirrors the meticulous process of tailoring a bespoke suit.
The Toric Chronographe in a 40.6mm rose gold case with leather strap.
The material and stitching are the highlights, with each strap being entirely hand-crafted.
This results in subtle, unique differences after the 20 or so precise manual operations required to complete them.
Machines fall short in some operations, such as padding the sides of the leather tongue.
Hand-sewing, which takes about 20 minutes, contrasts sharply with the three minutes a machine would take, showcasing the dedication to artisanal excellence.
The stitching on the strap is specific to the long-standing art of Italian tailoring, known as “punto a mano.”
On the visible side, a tiny stitch (1mm) is followed by an ample space (4mm), while on the inner side, the sequence is reversed: a large stitch followed by a small space.
This unique stitching, never done before by the strap manufacturer, was explicitly requested by Parmigiani Fleurier.
This intricate stitching adds the finishing touch to the bracelet’s six constituent layers, all meticulously glued by hand after shaping.
The nubuck-treated alligator leather strap reflects every stage of its manufacture, a process that actually takes two days for each bracelet.
Nubuck treatment gives the leather a velvety effect, a result of artisanal expertise.
The softness to the touch is achieved through delicate handling and light abrasion, a form of sanding perfected by the craftsman’s experience and sensitivity – neither too much nor too little.
“In crafting the new Toric collection, we drew upon the rich horological culture and expertise of Parmigiani Fleurier to redefine the essence of the men’s dress watch,” said Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier.
“This collection embodies a spirit of freedom and sophistication that reflects the evolution of the modern man’s wardrobe.
“We aimed to break free from traditional constraints, creating a watch that embodies a nuanced, serene and versatile elegance, meticulously crafted to resonate with the refined essence of today’s discerning individual,” Terreni adds.
The Toric Petite Seconde Platinum and Chronographe Rattrapante have respectively been nominated for the men’s watches and chronograph categories in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards.
