At New York Bridal Fashion Week, Elie Saab presented a mikado mermaid gown adorned with embroidery, beaded flowers and stems, and organza-and-mikado petals. Photo: Elie Saab
More designers than usual showcased their Autumn/Winter 2025 collections at the recent New York Bridal Fashion Week, and with the increase in activity came some new collaborations.
Some brands, like Galiu, Alyssa Kristin and Hermione de Paula in her new separates line, highlighted lower- to midrange price points, while others, including Andrea Osei Bride, Loulette Bride and Kathryn Bass Bridal, offered more plus-size options.
There were several firsts: The Fringe Collective, a curated market of designers dedicated to inclusivity and sustainability in bridal fashion, presented for the first time, and Christian Siriano debuted his first bridal collaboration with Azazie.
The week also saw the opening of Alexandra Grecco’s flagship store in the SoHo neighborhood of Manhattan and the debut of Lever Couture’s bridal collection.
While designers showed a variety of looks, there was a focus on romantic and structured silhouettes, textures and embellishments.
Here are some highlights from the latest bridal collections.
The ‘Bridgerton’ Effect
Many designers were inspired by the Renaissance and Victorian eras.
Christian Siriano debuts his first bridal collaboration with Azazie, showcasing a beautiful selection of gowns. Photo: Instagram/Christian Siriano“We’re seeing a return to romance in bridal fashion right now,” said Veronica Di Santo, the managing partner of Ines Di Santo.
“Bridgerton gave that back to us,” she said, referring to the popular historical romance television series.
The Ines Di Santo collection “leaned toward the super feminine, with cinched waists, fabrics with depth and a mix of textures”, Di Santo said. This included a strapless lace trumpet gown with a satin cinched waist and a long-sleeve lace bolero underneath.
Arava Polak channelled the Victorian era with a basque-waist, strapless lace gown worn over a long-sleeve lace bodysuit.
Yuliia Lobachoova, the founder and creative director of Ricca Sposa, debuted her first namesake bridal brand, which included a lace mermaid gown designed with a detachable basque-waist detail.
Sculptural PleatingArchitectural and sculptural pleats were seen across collections, providing drama and structure to the dresses.
One of Andrea Osei Bride’s standout designs was a light-as-air organza gown with allover pleating that tumbled down the skirt and cinched and accentuated the figure.
“Brides are asking for understated yet opulent elegance that offers some structure for a flattering fit,” said Andrea Osei, the label’s founder and designer.
Read more: She designs with love, for love: Nurita Harith speaks on her bridalwear journey
Anne Barge’s new collection featured a structural silk ballgown with symmetrical pleating on the bodice and pickups in the skirt.
Monique Lhuillier previewed a silk column dress with a double-peaked neckline, hidden boned corset and figure-flattering draping that wrapped around the hips.
Lace and MacrameWith its timeless, romantic appeal, lace has long been synonymous with bridal fashion.
The fabric is loved for its different textures and variations, and for how it shapes and forms a dress.
This season, designers used corded lace and macrame to create contemporary yet elegant silhouettes.
Galia Lahav combined a modern trumpet silhouette featuring a sheer front panel with classic corded French lace.
Nadia Manjarrez crafted a simple strapless A-line gown from macrame rose applique fabric.
And Peter Langner showed a strapless corded-lace mermaid gown topped with a matching capelet.
Ornate BeadingAlong with this year’s high romance and drama came elaborate embellishments and intricate detailing.
Elie Saab presented a mikado mermaid gown adorned with embroidery, beaded flowers and stems, and organza-and-mikado petals.
Kim Kassas Couture’s new collection featured a mermaid gown and matching cape made of silver and ivory Indian lace with three-dimensional floral embroidery and beading.
Something different in the form of a bow crop top with a column skirt in crinkled satin and silk. Photo: Instagram/Sebastien LukeA sleeveless column dress from Hermione de Paula was bejewelled with a hand-embroidered floral motif.
Read more: Bridalwear that is elegant and rich in culture popular among Malaysians
The Crop Top and Long Skirt
Separates are a favourite with many brides, and allow them to coordinate pieces for a distinctive look that can be adjusted throughout the wedding day or incorporated into their wardrobe afterward.
A two-piece silhouette on show was the crop top and long skirt, which gave a nod to the minimalist chic fashion of the 1990s.
Some highlights included Wona Concept’s corseted crop top with a sculpted neckline paired with a box-pleated skirt that featured a trending drop waist, and an Alexandra Grecco cropped corset with a softly pleated skirt and a tailored, floral-brooch-accented jacket.
Sebastien Luke added a bit of charm to the style with a bow-detailed, V-neck crop top and column skirt.
Bridal Designer CollaborationsReady-to-wear designers aren’t the only ones having fun with creative collaborations.
After working exclusively with Bobbi Brown on its runway shows for eight years, Ines Di Santo partnered with the cosmetics brand on a limited edition seven-piece Bridal Essentials Kit.
“It was an organic progression,” Di Santo said at the press event held after the Ines Di Santo bridal presentation.
“Their makeup team always mastered the look we wanted for the models. It was never too ‘bridal,’ but natural and beautiful.”
Mark Ingram announced his collaboration with the bridal and evening handbag brand the Bella Rosa Collection.
Its leather bag, aptly named the “Miss to Married” tote, was designed to allow brides to easily carry their essentials, and is sold exclusively at Mark Ingram Atelier in New York City.
At Anne Barge’s cocktail party celebrating its 25th anniversary, the designer debuted a bridal shoe collection with Black Suede Studio, available starting in April.
The range of 12 styles – including heeled mules, ankle-strap sandals, pumps and wedges – incorporates the satin and lace fabrics used for the brand’s dresses.
Sareh Nouri debuted her new collection of dresses along with her bridal accessory collaboration with Erin Rhyne.
The range of headbands, earrings and blusher veils is available at the Sareh Nouri flagship boutique in Livingston, New Jersey.
Galia Lahav announced a limited-edition capsule collection of lace lingerie and silk pajamas with the luxury lingerie brand Fleur du Mal. The bridal-inspired line is available on both designers’ websites.
And at her bridal presentation, Claire Pettibone debuted a jewellery collaboration, the Secret Garden Jewels by Claire Pettibone and the North Way Studio.
The collection of heirloom-like rings, made of refined 14-karat and 18-karat gold and consciously sourced stones, was designed to complement Pettibone’s vintage-inspired dresses. – ©2024 The New York Times Company
