The making of the kebaya was traditionally a skill passed down informally from mothers to daughters. Photo: Maslea
A traditional wear that transcends ethnicity, religion and culture, the kebaya appeals to people from all walks of life, making it a unifying symbol that is versatile and timeless.
The kebaya represents cultural heritage from the Malay, Peranakan (Chinese, Baba Nyonya, Chetti, Siamese, Kristang) and other communities in Malaysia, as well as other countries in South-East Asia.
Recently added to Unesco’s (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization’s) Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, this is a significant milestone for the fashion and heritage landscapes in Malaysia.
Following a joint nomination by Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand, the Ministry of Tourism, Arts, and Culture (Motac) announced the news in early December, which was celebrated by players in the fashion, cultural and heritage industries.
A process which began as a decision to jointly nominate kebaya onto the Unesco Representative List, the garment needed to meet the organisation’s definition of intangible cultural heritage on several criteria.
This included how its inscription would increase visibility, awareness and a dialogue of intangible cultural heritage; how safeguarding measures may protect and promote it; and how the nomination effort would involve the widespread participation of the community.
With the consensus for multi-national nomination, all participating countries were involved in a series of working meetings since early 2022, according to motac.gov.my., which culminated in the recent declaration by Unesco.
Read more: Malaysian fashion designers laud Unesco's official recognition of the kebaya
Modern appeal
While it is a shared heritage, the differences in kebaya styles are reflected in details that showcase the unique identities of each culture. Photo: Rizman RuzainiWorn at both casual and formal events as well as for cultural and theatre performances, the making of the kebaya was traditionally a skill passed down informally from mothers to daughters.
Through the years, men also became involved in all aspects of kebaya creation, from designing, selecting and cutting fabrics, to sewing and embroidery, with formal training becoming commonplace in schools and learning institutes.
Deeply rooted in tradition, versions of the kebaya worn today, for example the kebarung, are adaptations that have happened organically, influenced by Malaysia’s diverse cultural landscape.
Creative director of the brand Maslea, Suraya Sharifuddin, says that each community has left its mark, shaping the kebaya into a cross-cultural symbol celebrating our shared heritage.
“While the essence of the kebaya remains unchanged, some practical updates have been introduced, especially in mass-produced designs. For example, zippers have replaced traditional hooks and eyes in some versions, making it more convenient for modern wearers,” says Suraya.
Adjustments such as these are designed in such a way that they are subtle, ensuring the kebaya stays relevant for modern use without losing its original charm.
According to designer Salikin Sidek, there are two types of Malaysian kebaya.
“There’s the short kebaya, with and without embroidery, as well as the long kebaya which can be fitted or loose, with lapels and ‘pesak’ in front,” says Salikin.
“The kebarung is a combination of the baju kurung and the long kebaya,” he adds.
Kebaya styles – both modern iterations and the more traditional versions – are beautiful testaments to the melting pot that is Malaysia.
“At its heart, the kebaya continues to represent the beauty of Malaysia’s cultural diversity – a timeless piece that connects the past with the present,” says Suraya.
Different strokes
At its core, the kebaya is a shared cultural heritage, but the differences lie in the details that reflect the unique identities of each culture.
“A typical Malay kebaya tends to be more modest in its design, often longer and with simpler embroidery,” says Suraya.
“The Nyonya kebaya, on the other hand, is celebrated for its intricate sulam goyang (embroidery), which adds a delicate, handcrafted touch. Indonesian kebayas are often recognised for their vibrant colours and bold designs, though plainer options with distinctive silhouettes are also popular,” she adds.
Nyonya kebaya designer Kenny Loh is hoping that kebaya’s beauty and intricate embroidery will be known throughout the world.
“Nyonya kebaya is famous mostly among a few countries in this region because it has not been promoted enough. I am hoping now it will be known internationally and more people will appreciate how beautiful it is,” said Loh, a fifth-generation Baba who learnt Nyonya kebaya embroidery seven years ago to preserve his family’s Peranakan heritage.
Although he had never held a needle before, he took up the challenge of learning Nyonya embroidery from his elderly aunts.
It took him six months of full time learning to master the sulam goyang method, a traditional Malay embroidery technique that involves creating a “goyang” or moving pattern with thread and needle.
Despite being sewn with a machine, it’s the artisan’s skilled hand movements that create the intricate embroidery seen on Nyonya kebaya.
Loh also does beading, and recently won the prestigious Hasanah Gold Threads Award in the Beadwork Category of Best Innovation.
The duo behind Rizman Ruzaini, Rizman Nordin and Ruzaini Jamil, also weigh in on how to tell the Malay, Nyonya and Indonesian kebayas apart.
“What distinguishes the kebayas worn by the Malay and Jawi Peranakan communities is their plant motifs, while the Chinese Peranakan kebayas feature more animal motifs, reflecting their respective customs and cultures,” say the designers.
In addition to the different embroidery techniques, the Chinese Peranakan kebaya features intricate cut-out designs on the sleeves, back and side panels, which showcase the meticulous craftsmanship and elegance of the garment.
Made-to-measure kebayas are priced significantly higher because of the time and craftsmanship involved. Photo: Salikin Sidek“In today’s fashion landscape, the kebaya silhouette has become became more form-fitting, with the Kota Baru kebaya, influenced by Indonesian designs, featuring a distinctive ‘tongue’ at the front of the blouse, becoming popular among women in Kelantan,” say Rizman Ruzaini.
While there are many Indonesian kebayas in the market, Suraya believes that each style has its own appeal, with local Malaysian designers continuing to showcase their creativity in their interpretations of the kebaya.
“Our approach often leans into retro or vintage inspirations, with both colourful and plain options accented in unique ways. It’s exciting to see how Malaysian designers are contributing to this timeless tradition in their own way,” says Suraya.
Read more: Penang designer hopes kebaya's Unesco recognition brings global admiration
A design that caters to all
From lace creations to cutwork and embroidered versions, kebayas are made from various materials in all forms.
Mass-market offerings as well as made-to-measure and tailored pieces are a matter of cost and preference, with customers typically going for kebayas that complement their body shape.
“Different styles of kebaya cater to different preferences and body types – some prefer shorter, more form-fitting designs, while others opt for longer, more modest cuts,” says Suraya.
“When it comes to creating a custom kebaya, it usually takes a little over three weeks, especially if there are intricate customisations involved. The time and effort go into ensuring the kebaya is a perfect reflection of the wearer’s personal style and needs,” she adds.
Loh believes there are currently less than five Nyonya kebaya artisans in Malaysia, and he has not been able to recruit an apprentice interested in learning the craft.
But the demand for Nyonya kebaya continues to grow, especially from the Nyonya community and kebaya enthusiasts.
Apart from traditional kebayas, Loh also designs modern short kebayas and sleeveless kebaya tops, catering to younger generations.
His beautiful kebayas have been worn by celebrities such as Chinese actress Fan Bingbing in her role as Visit Melaka Year 2024 ambassador, as well as Hong Kong film star Amy Yip.
Salikin notes that long kebayas are often chosen to adhere to dress codes when it comes to formal events.
“Short kebayas tend to appeal more to younger wearers, as they are trendier and suit the times,” he adds.
As with any tailor-made pieces, made-to-measure kebayas are priced significantly higher because of the time and craftsmanship involved.
For example, having embroidery tailored to the client’s preference is a time-consuming process requiring a skilled artisan, which will drive the price up.
Ready-to-wear pieces, designed with standard sizes and general preferences in mind are more accessible in pricing, and costs are kept low are they are produced en masse, compared to tailor-made designs that are crafted to fit exact measurements and style preferences.
“Ready-made kebayas range between RM150 to RM450, whereas embroidered ones can go up to RM1500 or more,” notes Salikin.
Catering to various market segments, kebayas promote inclusion in fashion as it is a style that can be worn by most women.
“We hope that owning a kebaya can be an experience everyone can enjoy, regardless of budget, without compromising on quality or style,” says Suraya.
Classy, comfortable and culturally significant, the kebaya has been cemented as an important part of Malaysian heritage, ensuring the garment will remain an intangible part of the local fashion design scene for the foreseeable future.
