The new timepiece features a captivating dial inspired by Japan’s symbolic wisteria flower, or “fuji.”
In celebration of its second anniversary in the Asia-Pacific region, Japanese watch brand Grand Seiko has unveiled its limited-edition SBGJ285 timepiece showcasing a refined take on its iconic 44GS case design.
This new watch features a captivating dial inspired by Japan’s symbolic wisteria flower, also known as “fuji.”
Just recently at the tail end of November, Kiyotaka Sakai − the talented watch designer behind this latest Grand Seiko showpiece − was in Kuala Lumpur at the brand’s “Nature of Time” exhibition, currently being held in collaboration with watch retailers Sincere Fine Watches at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.
Kiyotaka, who joined the company in 2012, had plenty to say about his creative journey when designing the new watch.
“From the early stages of development, we had the idea of focusing on Japanese plants and flowers,” recalls Kiyotaka.
“Eventually, the wisteria concept emerged because I come from Fukuoka, a place that’s famous for these beautiful flowers!
(second from left) Master watchmaker Junya Kamijo and watch designer Kiyotaka (third from left) showing off Seiko’s timepieces, flanked by Sincere Fine Watches top executives.
“As you may very well already know, the flower is beloved by the Japanese people since ancient times as a symbol of beauty,” he adds.
Kiyotaka goes on to say that the colour purple is also known as “fuji-iro” in Japanese and is the traditional hue for nobility in Japan.
“The delicate purple mirrors the graceful sway of wisteria blossoms, so this soft and traditional hue evokes fleeting beauty and profound elegance – both hallmarks of Japanese artistry.”
As such, it was very important for Kiyotaka’s design to highlight the beauty of the flowers’ natural colour.
“In order to express the delicate purple colour of the wisteria flower that shine through the sunlight, we combined patterns that recreate beautiful light reflections with a highly translucent colour that do not obstruct the reflection of light.
“Additionally, by using radial brush finish on the dial before painting, we enhanced its reflectivity for an even greater effect.”
The details
The watch measures 40mm in diameter and 14.04mm in thickness, with the familiar 44GS case design characterised by angled, flat flanks that catch the light well, especially with the mirrored flat polishing that is a Grand Seiko signature.
The case and bracelet are crafted from Ever-Brilliant Steel, a high-grade stainless steel with a pitting resistance equivalent number (PREN) value 1.7 times higher than conventional steel, ensuring both durability and exceptional brilliance.
The sharp, clean lines and mirror-like surfaces of the watch are also enhanced by Grand Seiko’s renowned Zaratsu polishing technique, further elevating the minimalist design.
Grand Seiko’s limited-edition SBGJ285 watch with calf leather strap, featuring a dial inspired by the wisteria flower.
Kiyotaka elaborates: “Our creations, especially those with textured dials inspired by nature, are widely discussed among watch fans everywhere. However, this is just one aspect of Grand Seiko.
“As a brand from Japan, several of the most enduring aspects of Japanese culture, including the tradition of quality, the spirit of craftsmanship and the philosophy of beauty form the central parts of the Grand Seiko DNA.”
Powering the watch is the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Calibre 9S86 that ensures not only precision and versatility, but also offering dual time-zone tracking for the modern traveller.
“Of course, the watch also has a GMT function. This allows the wearer to track time in two time zones simultaneously, making it ideal for the modern traveller who is also a watch enthusiast.
“The independently adjustable hour hand enables the easy setting of time without interrupting the timekeeping function, enhancing practicality and convenience,” he reveals.
Limited edition
The calibre offers 55 hours of power reserve and was constructed from ground up as a second time-zone watch and features a “true” GMT function with an independently adjustable hour hand linked to the date.
The local time hour hand is adjustable backwards and forwards in one-hour steps, with the date moving in tandem with the hour hand.
And in typical Grand Seiko style, the dial features multi-faceted mirrored steel indices and hands.
The GMT hand is in a deep purple to match the dial. A subtle purple-and-silver 24-hour scale on the dial’s perimeter functions as the second time zone indicator.
Moving forward, Kiyotaka is also keen to emphasise that the brand is now focusing on a core group of creations and as such, is limiting the number of regional editions to more effectively communicate the beauty of Grand Seiko to a wider audience.
“Today, we see a trend in key creations that enjoy popularity in all regions. These include the SBGA413 ‘Shunbun’ watch, which captures the cherry blossom falling on the surface of a river in springtime, the SBGA211G ‘Snowflake’, which continues to enjoy great popularity worldwide, and our SLGH005 ‘White Birch’ high-beat watch from our Evolution 9 Collection, the one that won the Best Men’s watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards in 2021.“
Kiyotaka is also keen to highlight that the brand will continue to focus on the further development of its Evolution 9 collection. After all, this is Grand Seiko’s core collection which showcases the brand’s pursuit to keep pushing back watchmaking boundaries.
“Last year’s high-beat chronograph, the ‘Tentagraph’, and this year’s manual-winding dress watch – evoking the texture of white birch bark and powered by the high-beat Calibre 9SA4 – are prime examples. Just as our manual-winding and automatic ‘White Birch’ watches continue to receive wide acclaim, the creations from our current Evolution 9 collection will be regarded as our icons moving forward.”
Kiyotaka also believes that in today’s luxury watch scene, one of the most critical priorities for a luxury brand is to be true to its own unique identity, refining and communicating this consistently on a global scale.
“Rather than focus solely on gaining market share or outpacing another brand, we will increasingly prioritise showcasing our uniqueness and individuality. By doing so, we can differentiate ourselves from others, allowing customers to select a timepiece that truly resonates with their personal character and values,” he adds.
