This French abbey monastery is very popular with tourists ... but only until mid-day


By AGENCY

Tourists walking near Le Mont-Saint-Michel, northwestern France. — DAMIEN MEYER/AFP

Just before lunch at the height of the summer season, the narrow alleys of France’s iconic Le Mont-Saint-Michel are thronged with a crush of people.

But come late afternoon, the same steeply ascending lanes are almost deserted.

This is the dilemma for the famed abbey monastery on an islet off the Normandy coast that is France’s most visited tourist destination outside of Paris and a Unesco World Heritage site since 1979.

Can measures that it is implementing, such as cheaper or even free parking in the evenings, help it better regulate the influx of tourists?

It’s a dilemma shared by dozens of other sites popular with tourists in France and elsewhere in Europe, which during the summer are filled to bursting with visitors, but empty out in the evenings and during the off season, often to the detriment of the local economy.

Its reputation as a tourist magnet puts off some visitors, as it celebrates the 1,000th anniversary of the foundation of Le Mont-Saint-Michel on the site.

It welcomes three million visitors every year, including a million in the summer.

On Aug 18, 2022, the abbey, which has a total area of less than 4sq km, saw a peak in attendance for the season with more than 36,000 visitors in one day, the equivalent of an entire small French city descending on the site.

A very long line of visitors waiting at the entrance of Le Mont-Saint-Michel abbey monastery. — AFPA very long line of visitors waiting at the entrance of Le Mont-Saint-Michel abbey monastery. — AFP

However, most of these tourists organise their visit in the same way: they arrive before lunch, have a picnic or go to a restaurant, visit the site and then return home or to their accommodation in the middle of the afternoon.

This pattern leads to an overcrowding of the site from 10am to 4pm, keeping some potential visitors away.

They are barely aware that the site, which has only 132 hotel rooms within the walls, is almost empty in the evening.

Incentive measures

To try to remedy this, the foundation responsible for the upkeep of Le Mont-Saint-Michel is implementing several “incentive measures” from this summer, some of which will come into force this month.

“The first measure is communication, encouraging visitors on social networks, in the press, to come before 10am and after 4pm,” said Thomas Velter, director of the foundation.

Regulating the frequency of shuttle buses to the site can also help a well as other incentive measures such as free parking from 6.30pm except in July and August.

“We rather encourage people coming out of season,” he added.

He said some 30% of tourists come in the peak summer months alone, with only 4.5% of all the days of the year seeing peak crowds.

“The rest of the time Mont-Saint-Michel is a place of calm and contemplation.”

Visitors have for some years already been required to take a shuttle bus or walk to the site after parking their cars in the mainland, rather than park outside as was the case in the past.

Between 2005 and 2015, around €230mil (RM1.15bil) was spent on returning the site to the sea, including flushing out excessive sand and silt and replacing the road with a wooden footbridge.

Tourists walking in the crowded main street of Le Mont-Saint-Michel in France. — Photos: AFPTourists walking in the crowded main street of Le Mont-Saint-Michel in France. — Photos: AFP

Evening visits

Emmanuel Conan, who manages the Les Mouettes gift shop said: “If people arrive earlier, they will be the first to go up to the abbey, without the crowds”.

Tourists who are following this advice agree it’s the way to go.

“We wanted to stay until the evening and to take some photos when the sun goes down. And we hoped that the most people left the area already in the evening, so we came late today,” said Matthias, 56, a tourist from Dortmund in Germany.

France in June unveiled a plan to regulate visitor flows at the most popular sites and lay out a strategy against “overtourism”.

Some other sites are already taking measures: the Calanques national park near Marseille has said it will maintain for the next five years a free reservation system for visiting the renowned Sugiton coves that was first implemented during the Covid-19 pandemic.

And officials are capping day visits to the gorgeous Brittany island of Brehat at 4,700 during the peak summer months. – AFP

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