Majestic view of Kledang range seen from the old reservoir of Papan. — Photos: YOON LAI WAN
In the wee hours of an unusually dry season, my friends and I were caught off guard by the unexpected sound of rain and thunder. We had planned to embark on a cycling adventure to explore some towns in the south of Ipoh, Perak but the sudden downpour forced us to come up with Plan B. So, we hopped into our cars for a road trip instead.
Our first mission was to indulge in a hearty breakfast in the town of Pusing. We had heard reviews about Loong Foo Kopitiam, renowned for its hot butter coffee. Upon entering the kopitiam, tantalising aroma of freshly brewed coffee from the kitchen filled the air. Each cup of coffee came with a melting pat of butter, infusing it with a rich and creamy flavour. It was pure indulgence but perhaps, for some, it is an acquired taste.
Eager to burn off the extra calories, we ventured into the bustling market, mingling with the friendly townsfolk. The hawkers proudly displayed an array of fresh vegetables and herbs harvested from their own backyards. We couldn’t resist the local specialities either – nyonya kuih and the classic black coloured “chou yip pan”, a popular Hakka snack similar to the Hokkien “ang ku kueh”, sold from pushcarts.
We also made sure to buy a few pillow-shaped glutinous rice dumplings, knowing that one would never be enough.
Our next stop was Kampung Bali in Tronoh, a village partially surrounded by oil palm plantations. Life seemed to move at a slower pace in this village, which has a sizeable Thai community. We eagerly sought out a small Thai restaurant, Seong Yu, on the first floor of the main market. The dish of Thai-style pig trotters served with rice was among the mouthwatering goodies offered here (you need to pre-book some of the dishes, though).
The writer (far left), checking out local delicacies at Pusing market with her travel companions (from left) William, Law, Phooi Phooi, Queenly, Camees and Lai Ling.
Tokong Cina Ho Sin Koo located in the periphery of Tronoh was our next destination. Completed in 1902, this temple with beautiful wooden carvings adorning its walls is mostly visited by childless couples asking for blessings. We learned that a Cantonese opera performance featuring artists from Hong Kong will be staged here on Sept 18.
Papan, a historic town nestled in the enchanting Kinta Valley, was our last stop for the day. Unlike the typical tourist hotspots, Papan offered a unique perspective that breathed life into the state’s rich past. The town’s glory days began in the 1840s as an enterprising lumber town, renowned for its prized chengal wood. Eventually, the allure of tin mining propelled Papan even further into the spotlight, as more people turned up and businesses flourished.
However, when the tin industry collapsed, the town dwindled and was left nearly abandoned. Currently, there are only 150 people living in the area.
Strolling along the main street, we were captivated by the pre-war shophouses lining the paths. Some of them were cloaked in lush foliage, their walls embraced by the aerial prop roots of the banyan trees. The sight was mystical, as if the roots were silently upholding the crumbling structures. One shophouse, number 74, was said to have once served as a clinic run by Malaysian war heroine, Sybil Kathigasu. The decrepit walls whispered tales of her courage and resilience.
A short distance away, the Yip Sei Mansion stood proudly. Adorned with charming wooden windows and imposing brickwork balconies, the place reminded us of scenes from old Chinese movies.
Just around the corner, perched atop a hillock, the Raja Bilah Mansion commanded our attention. Built in 1886 by Raja Bilah, the Mandailing leader and “penghulu” or leader of Papan, this mansion boasted intricate wooden carvings on its doors and windows. A meticulously decorated wall encircles this imposing structure, too.
Masjid Kampung Papan has been around since in 1888.
Nearby is the Masjid Kampung Papan, also constructed by Raja Bilah. Completed in 1888, this sacral architecture is the oldest intact mosque in Perak and the second oldest in the peninsular.
Venturing into the back lanes of Papan, we saw vibrant paintings of whimsical fishes artistically painted on paved roads, infusing a playful energy into the atmosphere. We stumbled upon two well-documented galleries, housed within village homes, which transported us back to the emergency period.
Thirsty from our adventure, we encountered an enterprising aunty who grew gac fruit in her garden. She offered us refreshing cold fruit juice, which we eagerly gulped down.
Continuing our journey, we made our way to an old reservoir atop a small hill. An imposing view of the Kledang range which forms the backdrop of Papan can be viewed from here.
With rumbling stomachs, we retraced our steps to the first coffeeshop we came across. There, we filled our bellies with juicy traditional pork dumplings, lovingly steamed over a crackling charcoal fire. Each bite carried with it the essence of Papan’s heritage, a delectable blend of flavours that told the story of a community united by their past.
The views expressed are entirely the reader’s own.
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