The Registan Square is an Islamic architecture icon located in the heart of the ancient city, Samarkand. — Photos: RAHIMY RAHIM/The Star
The journey through several historic cities of Uzbekistan has never been more comfortable thanks to the Afrosiyob high-speed train. From the country’s bustling capital Tashkent, it takes just slightly over two hours to get to Samarkand via the efficient train service.
The Afrosiyob trains are designed to take travellers to their destination at an amazing speed of up to 250km per hour, according to its website.
As I boarded the train in Tashkent, I was splendidly surprised by the state-of-the-art vehicle that looked like any other modern railway carriage from the outside. The train has a premium cabin with a 2x2 seating configuration and comes equipped with power outlets to charge your devices, leaving travellers feeling like they are taking one of the fancy rails in Europe.
The service started immediately after we left Tashkent, where each passenger was given a snack tray, just like on a flight. We even got to choose a drink – local tea, coffee or water.
This was my first time in Central Asia and I’ve only known Uzbekistan through some searches on TikTok and wonderful stories from a colleague and seasoned traveller. She had only nice things to say about the country, so I was quite excited about the trip.
While sipping my kuk-choy (green tea), I couldn’t help but admire the mountainous views from my window on the train. Not to mention the various small cities that we passed by along the way, before reaching Samarkand.
Last year, this historic city was named the 2023 World Tourism Capital at the 24th General Assembly of the UN World Tourism Organisation in Spain. So a visit here is a must if you’re planning a trip to Uzbekistan.
The day after we arrived, our guide brought us to see one of the most important monuments in Islamic art, the Registan Square, located in the heart of Samarkand.
The Afrosiyob high-speed train in Tashkent is the best way to travel interstate in Uzbekistan.
Famous for its unique architectural ensemble, the complex has gained worldwide fame among passionate travellers for its beautiful grand madrasah (teaching institutions), and its majestic portals, which face the centre of the space.
Uzbekistan’s tourism committee marketing department officer, Sherzod Sultanov, said that in Central Asia the main town squares were traditionally called “registan”, which means a “sandy place” in the Persian language.
According to him, Samarkand’s Registan Square was once regarded as the hub of the Timurid Renaissance. Under the Timurid dynasty, many religious and cultural buildings were built in the city.
The Registan Square, with its tilting madrasah that’s adorned with intricate majolica and azure mosaics, is the crowning jewel of the city and one of the most awe-inspiring sights in Central Asia. Today, the magnificent space comprises three main madrasah complexes: the Ulugbek Madrasah, Tilla-kari and the Sher-Dor madrasah, all of which were constructed at different times under the Timurid dynasty.
The Ulugbek Madrasah, commissioned by Mirzo Ulugbek (grandson of Amir Temur), was designed by the architect Kavomiddin Sherozi.
Two centuries later, between the 16th and 17th centuries, the Sher-Dor Madrasah was constructed.
It is here where some of the greatest Muslim minds and thinkers of the 14th and the 15th centuries came from. One of them was renowned astronomer and mathematician Ulugh Beg.
During the hot summer season the grand entrance to the square, which is adorned with tiles arranged in unique geometric patterns in blue and turquoise, reminded me of the bright blue skies.
In fact, it is said that the blue of the sky was mostly the inspiration behind many of the mosques and grand buildings found in the city, as well as in other parts of Uzbekistan.
Kufic calligraphy can also be seen inscribed on the minarets and domes, set against the same exquisite glazed tile work.
The beautiful portal and trademark fluted azure dome of the Gur-e-Amir mausoleum which marks the final resting place of Uzbekistan’s national hero and ruler, Amir Temur.
We visited the iconic Gur-e-Amir or mausoleum of Amir Temur, too. This is where the former ruler’s body lies, along with those of his sons and grandsons.
According to locals, Gur-e-Amir means “tomb of the king” in Persian. The inner chamber was once made of gold, jade, and onyx.
During his reign, Amir Temur – the most powerful king in Central Asia at the time – ordered the erection of a handful of grand structures. Today these buildings still stand and are regarded as key Islamic monuments in Samarkand.
The mausoleum bears some similarities to another iconic mausoleum a few thousand kilometres away: the Taj Mahal in Agra, India.
Both structures were built to honour great leaders and their loved ones, and are masterpieces of their respective eras and regions, showcasing the pinnacle of architectural and artistic achievement.
The Gur-e-Amir was supposedly built for Amir Temur’s beloved grandson, the crown prince Muhammad Sultan, after his eldest son Jehangir Ali died when he was just 23. However, the future heir to the throne died from injuries sustained in a war, prompting the devastated Amir Temur to order the construction of a mausoleum. The building began in 1403.
Amir Temur himself was interred there after falling ill and dying in 1405 during his military campaign against China’s Ming Dynasty. His spiritual teacher, Sayyid Baraka, is also honoured with a place at the tomb.
One of the most striking parts of the mausoleum was the gigantic bright blue dome with deep rosettes and white spots.
Inside the mausoleum, a picture of Amir Temur and a map of his vast empire during his glory period greet visitors before they step into the dome, where Amir Temur is buried.
Malaysia Prime Minister Datuk Seri Anwar Ibrahim recently paid a visit to Samarkand, particularly the Imam Bukhari Complex built around the tomb of Imam Bukhari (Imam Bukhari Mausoleum), a famous Muslim hadith expert. Malaysia and Uzbekistan have enjoyed close relations since they established ties in 1992.
Uzbekistan, meanwhile, is a landlocked country with five “neighbours”: Kazakhstan in the north, Kyrgyzstan in the northeast, Tajikistan in the southeast, Afghanistan in the south and Turkmenistan in the southwest.
Travel notes
Getting there: Batik Air flies direct twice weekly from Kuala Lumpur to Tashkent. Uzbekistan Airways flights are also available from KL.
Where to stay: A number of international hotel brands have properties both in Tashkent and Samarkand (Wyndham, InterContinental, Holiday Inn, Hilton etc), but there are also a variety of local properties that will fit all kinds of budget and travel group size.
Where to go: Apart from Tashkent and Samarkand, you can also travel to Bukhara, Khiva and Shakhrisabz, which were all once part of the Silk Road.
