The Jaisalmer Fort dates back to 1750. — Photos: DAVID BOWDEN
Along with five other ridgetop forts in the Indian state of Rajasthan, Jaisalmer forms the Hill Forts of Rajasthan, a Unesco World Heritage Site.
These spectacular locations include majestic forts situated in Chittorgarh, Jaipur, Jhalawar, Kumbhalgarh and Sawai Madhopur that are indicative of just how powerful the Rajput states once were when they reigned supreme from the 8th to the 18th centuries.
The Rajput (from Sanskrit raja-putra or “son of a king”), are some 12 million landowners located in central and northern India. They are especially numerous in the historic region of Rajputana, which also includes parts of present-day eastern Pakistan.
These defensive fort walls protected settlements that included palaces, bazaars, temples, residential homes, and places where artisans plied their trades. Over time, they also became places of learning with their rulers being patrons of music, literature, arts and culture.
Most of the forts developed around natural features such as desert dunes, hills, rocky outcrops, rivers and forests as part of their defensive infrastructure. In the parched Rajasthani landscape, water harvesting and storage were important for the settlement’s survival, and these features have withstood the pressures of time and are still intact.
Elaborate fortifications, like those in Jaisalmer, were built to not only protect garrisons of soldiers but also the palatial buildings, temples, markets and other urban infrastructure within.
Fort Kotri Para standing guard over the desert city.
Rajasthan’s amazing forts are a highlight of any visit to India, but it’s important to be aware of the distances and travelling times between the six destinations; for example, Jaisalmer is some 730km from Jhalawar!India’s Silk Road
Established in the 12th century, Jaisalmer became an important trading post along a former caravan route to the Khyber Pass in Central Asia and onto one of the various Silk Road routes between China and Turkiye. This route was used by those who saw it as an alternative to traversing another path across the Pamir Mountains.
Long and colourful camel caravans laden with tea, spices, silk, tapestries and other sought after exotic goods, passed through the desert town. Cameleers would gather here before heading into the parched Thar Desert, and missionaries, emissaries and other travellers often joined the cameleers and traders in long caravans of camels laden with valuable cargo.
In the Age of Discovery – from the 15th to the 17th centuries – sea trade flourished as sailing vessels set off from Europe to trade with Asia. Trade became much easier, faster and safer with long journeys through the parched desert lands of Asia losing their appeal, and fort cities such as Jaisalmer began to decline in importance.
The golden city
Tourism has seen a revival in interest in Jaisalmer, but the long train journey keeps mass tourism at bay and visitors, especially during the low season, will be able to enjoy Jaisalmer without the crowds commonly seen at some of the other forts in this Unesco site.
From a distance, Jaisalmer Fort shimmers in the desert sunlight. It is very much a living fort, and as you stroll along its narrow streets and alleyways, you can admire the exteriors of grand ancestral homes that date back several centuries.
These buildings are unique in that, being located in the desert, water is scarce and mortar isn’t commonly used to hold the sandstone blocks in place.
Local artisans carved interlocking features into the sandstone to bind them without using cement. Once in place, pieces of metal were placed between the blocks for extra strength.
The golden sandstone walls of the Jaisalmer Fort create a magical setting, especially during the golden rays at sunset. Visitors can navigate its narrow and ancient alleyways, intricately carved Jain temples and palaces to admire the panoramic views from various vantage points.
There are many camel adventures for visitors to experience in the Thar Desert.
The ancient hilltop city fort of Jaisalmer, perched atop Trikuta Hill, is a landmark that has guided desert travellers for centuries. Jaisalmer appears as an elevated island in the sea of sand that is the Thar Desert. The old city in the Land of Kings is protected by 9m-high walls carved from golden sandstone blocks.
Powerful merchants built lavish residences called havelis, and the fort walls were erected to protect the residents, their homes, and the businesses that they operated. Havelis are symbolic of the skilled artisans who have operated in the fort city for centuries.
The Patwon Ki Haveli is a collection of five grand havelis, so symbolic of Jaisalmer’s eclectic architectural heritage. It is decorated with elaborate facades, carefully carved balconies, and ornate windows. Others, such as Salim Singh Ki Haveli and Nathmal Ki Haveli, are also impressive. The former stands out for its distinctive peacock-shaped roof and impressive architectural detailing.
Nathmal Ki Haveli, meanwhile, is a masterpiece that showcases the skill of the two brothers who constructed its different sides. It features detailed carvings, delicate latticework, and a unique blend of Islamic and Rajput architectural styles.
The havelis were where wealthy traders once lived.
Seven Jain temples containing frescoes, mirrors and other religious detailing of exquisite designs are also located within the fort complex. Chandraprabhu Temple was built in 1509, while Rikhabdev Temple is carefully safeguarded with glass cabinets.
The other Jain temples include the majestic Parasnath, plus Shitalnath, Sambhavanth, Shantinath and Kunthunath. The two latter temples feature beautiful stone carvings.
Outside the fort, Gadisar Lake is a desert oasis and a place for relaxation, as well as a valuable reservoir for the town’s water. The lake is surrounded by shrines, temples, and cenotaphs, and it’s possible to take a boat ride here.
Desert wilderness
The surrounding desert wilderness includes extensive sand dunes, oasis villages and camel herds. From Jaisalmer, intrepid adventurers can join a multi-day camel safari into the Thar Desert, stopping at temples and villages such as Amar Sagar, Mool Sagar and Bada Bagh while camping out under the stars.
Safaris vary in price, quality and sightseeing, with four-day treks being the norm.
Visit the Bada oasis near Jaisalmer.
For day visitors, the most popular dune site is Sam Sand Dunes, some 40km from Jaisalmer. The sweeping dunes are a mesmerising sight during the sunrise and sunset. Visitors can participate in camel rides, jeep safaris, and cultural performances showcasing traditional Rajasthani folk art.
Rajasthan is noteworthy for its numerous tribal people and their brightly-coloured clothing, which is still worn by many. These colours come to the fore at the dunes, where ornately dressed camel herders take visitors on a memorable camel ride across the extensive dunes.
While camels are an important part of the Rajasthani landscape, their survival is under threat as grazing lands diminish. Camels are recognised as an emblem of the state, and ongoing projects are in place to develop the production and marketing of camel milk.
Mellow time
The desert setting, ancient surroundings, sunset ambiance, and cooler nights create the essential ingredients for a chilled and mellow Jaisalmer evening.
Rooftop outlets are numerous and definitely the place to head as the sun recedes into the sand dunes off into the Thar Desert distance. They tend to follow a formula: Views, sunsets, snacks, full meals (including vegetarian and vegan), coffee, tea, stronger beverages, and pillow seating, often on the floor. Choosing accommodation within the fort that has a rooftop restaurant will save you the effort of seeking one out.
Some recommended places to eat and drink within the fort include Rajasthan Rooftop Oasis, Sunset Views, KuKu Coffee, Pleasant Haveli and The Lal Garh. The Golden Horizon Rooftop Café is also highly regarded by visitors.
At the foot of the fort, there is a shop selling bhang lassi, a local herb-infused drink that appears to be legal here. Years ago, Anthony Bourdain travelled to Jaisalmer, enjoyed the beverage and put the restaurant on the tourist map. Grand train rides
While the era of the British Raj has certainly passed into history, well-heeled travellers can ride on the luxurious Palace On Wheels train to experience an elegant and bygone era. The train travels to Rajasthan’s most impressive heritage cities, including Jaisalmer, and through the state’s scenic landscapes.
At the temples in Jaisalmer, you will most likely come across a few holy men.
Some of the original carriages on this train were once owned by maharajas who ruled the land back in the day. The Palace On Wheels features four cabins per carriage with en-suite shower/toilet facilities. Dedicated restaurant and bar cars are available, as is a spa facility.
The multi-day journey covers some 2,000km, with much of the travel done during the night to maximise sightseeing opportunities in the destinations visited.
The train departs from Udaipur on its 500km-long overnight journey to Jaisalmer, and arrives in Jaisalmer by mid-morning.
Travellers on more modest budgets can plan their own itinerary using regular trains operated by Indian Railways to visit Jaisalmer and the other Rajasthani fort cities.
Travel notes
Getting there: Make your way to New Delhi – both AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines fly to the Indian capital from Kuala Lumpur. From there, get on a train to Jaisalmer; India Railways (indianrailways.gov.in) connects to the city, though it is a very long ride. You can always break up the journey and visit other cities in between. For example, the fastest train from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer takes about five hours and covers some 300km.
Where to stay: Choose to stay in conventional hotels outside the fort or havelis, which provide an atmospheric alternative. Hotel Garh Jaisal Haveli is one suggestion.
Travel tip: The best time to travel to Jaisalmer is from October to March, thus avoiding the harshness of India’s warmer months (April to June) and the monsoonal rains that follow (July to September).
David Bowden is the author of the Great Railway Journeys In Asia book, which includes the journey on the Palace On Wheels train.
