Sunset at Magnolia Point. — Photos: DR NANDITA RAY
Summer began early this year in eastern India. By March, the plains were in the throes of sweltering heat and lots of folks made their getaway to more pleasant climes.
When we were deciding where to go on holiday, we gave the more popular hill stations a wide berth and decided on a lesser-known (and therefore, less crowded) sanctuary in India.
Netarhat lies in Jharkhand, about a three-hour drive from the state capital, Ranchi. Called the “queen of Chota Nagpur plateau”, it is 1,071m above sea level, so the weather remains mostly cool throughout the year.
We left the cramped streets of Ranchi with its persistent honking, and went into straight and narrow roads bordered by wide expanses of farmland, dotted by strange-looking cattle sheds. At some places, there were oases of greenery bursting with glorious crimson blooms.
Flame-of-the-forest trees (locally called palash) put on a grand show during this season.
Gradually, the topography began to change and huge boulders appeared, followed by sinuous hills. Our driver expertly manoeuvered the hairpin bends. Bamboo groves acted as safety barriers, protecting the hills from landslides.
The Chalet House was built in 1919.
Soon, we reached our abode for the night, a sprawling hotel set among lanky sal trees. After freshening up, we headed for The Chalet House. Built in 1919 as a summer retreat for British folks by the Lieutenant Governor of Bihar and Odisha, it is a handsome two-storey log building, surrounded by well-kept lawns and sprawling gardens lined with statues. The rooms, complete with fireplaces, have been mostly well-preserved, giving guests a peek into colonial India.
Nearby, wide avenues with pine trees lead to the Netarhat Vidyalaya, an elite residential school where the best students in the state are moulded into future leaders.
Pear orchards also abound here. We drove through fields filled with trees laden with little green fruits – we were a little too early for the bounty.
Netarhat is famous for its sunrise and sunsets. The best spot to witness the end of the day is Magnolia Point. Here, the ground drops off into deep, tree-covered gorges only to rise in the horizon as undulating mist-clad hills.
A popular folklore tells the story of Magnolia, an English maiden, who was enamoured with a local shepherd, but their tryst was forbidden. Heartbroken, the hapless Magnolia rode her steed off the cliff edge into the forests below. Statues of the embracing couple and a rusting horse remain reminders of the tragedy.
As the sun played hide-and-seek behind the clouds, about 30 schoolchildren in uniform, with their teachers, appeared with dhols (drum). They formed concentric circles and began singing and dancing to the beat of the drums.
With the fading sunlight, their voices rose to a crescendo and the rhythm quickened, becoming almost palpable. It was surreal with the crimson sun setting above hazy hills as if synchronised with the hypnotic chanting and the thumping of feet.
As darkness set in, the crowd fell silent in awe of nature’s beauty. Then everyone dispersed with, I am sure, inexplicable stirrings of the heart. I certainly felt it.
The 255 steps leading to Lodh Falls.
As I drifted off contentedly in the comforts of our hotel room, I strained my ears, hoping to hear a wolf howl, but none came. At the outskirts of Netarhat is India’s lone wolf (pun intended) sanctuary. Due to time constraints, we did not visit it. Perhaps it was my imagination, but nearly all the dogs I saw in Netarhat had long blunt snouts.
Hotel Prabhat Vihar is a vantage point for viewing sunrise. As guests, we were able to watch it from the balcony, while others gathered on the promontory below, aptly called The Sunrise Viewpoint. The faraway hills threw off their cloak of fog, revealing silhouettes of purple. The crimson dot grew in the sky, its rays casting a shimmering glow on everything below.
We decided to explore Koel View Point, another scenic spot known for its sunrise, a short drive away. With tall conifers overhead, we strolled on a soft carpet of pine needles and cones, to a cliff overlooking the Koel River meandering in the valley below. Despite the now blazing sun, a cool breeze blew.
The Lodh Falls is Jharkhand’s highest waterfall.
Ninety minutes from Netarhat is the Lodh Falls, Jharkhand’s highest waterfall. We took as many as 255 steps to get there but it was breathtaking. Bordered by lush foliage and wild flowers with ample resting spots, the waterfall plunges from the Burha River into deep dark pools below.
There are many places in India that have remained little-known and I am glad I discovered one in Netarhat.
The views expressed are entirely the reader’s own.
