Passengers on the overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai will get this view during the day. -- GISELE SOO/The Star
Long queues of travellers crowded the boarding gate at the Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (or Bang Sue Grand Station) in Bangkok, Thailand, on a warm evening.
Like us, they were mostly backpackers, but there were some locals too, all waiting to board the overnight train headed to the northern city of Chiang Mai.
The Sleeper Express No. 9 route, spanning over 750km, is one of the longest train rides in the country, second only to the Special Express No. 37 that travels 948km between Bangkok and Sungai Kolok in the border province of Narathiwat.
While taking a flight would have been considerably faster (no longer than 90 minutes), my friend and I opted for the overnight train ride, which takes approximately 13 hours. We were, after all, seeking a more “authentic” travel experience as it was our first time visiting the mountainous Chiang Mai.
There are several ways to travel within Thailand – plane, bus, car, and train. A bus ride is usually the cheapest option, and a few hours faster than a train ride, but on the train you get a proper sleeping berth and a somewhat more scenic route.
As the doors opened, we entered the carriage, and were impressed by the cleanliness of our cabin. It was brightly lit and the seats had sockets for passengers to charge their devices.
We stowed our bags in the compartment under our seats. The limited storage space might make it a tad difficult for passengers with larger bags, though.
We then pulled down the folding table mounted just under the window, placing the food we bought earlier from a hawker stall near the station.
The seat across the aisle was occupied by a solo traveller – “Louie from Germany,” he told us – who was taking the sleeper train for the second time. In our brief conversation with him, he shared that this was just one of the various long-distance train rides he’d taken around the world.
As we were eating our dinner, we watched the porter bustle up and down the narrow aisle getting passengers ready for departure. A few moments later, he disappeared from our view.
A loud, piercing sound from the train horn signalled our departure from the station.
Another staff member started going around taking food orders from passengers. Those who did not bring their own food had the option of purchasing packed meals from the dining car.
The upper and lower berth.
A couple of hours passed by and the porter we saw in the beginning had now returned to start converting the seats into beds, placing a sheet over the “mattress”; a blanket and a pillow were given as well. The curtains were drawn, shading us from the lights outside.
Apart from the occasional jolts and light horn blowing (part of the train’s safety precaution) throughout the night, the journey was surprisingly smooth. It was comfortable enough for us to sleep soundly through the journey.
At dawn, I vacated my windowless top bunk to join my friend below. Through the bottom bunk’s window, we enjoyed the picturesque view of the morning sun rising over the mountainous landscape.
The train attendant will start converting the seats into beds at 9pm. — Photos: GISELE SOO/The Star
Our beds were turned back into seats at around 6.30am. Everyone had already woken up by then, and some had gone to the dining car for breakfast.
There are several trains that travel from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. Sleeper Express No. 9 leaves from the terminal in Bangkok daily. The train schedule is available on Thailand Trains’ official website.
Ticket prices vary depending on the seats, cabin and sleeping berth. As a general guide, the sleeping berth – the lower bunk with a window – will cost more.
It’s advisable to book the tickets online in advance as they sell out fast. You can collect them at the company or request for a delivery to your hotel in Bangkok.
