The Tunnel of Light in Betong is now a shopping mall of sorts. — Photos: HOO BAN KHEE
The morning dawned. I parted the curtains and opened the window of my fifth-floor hotel room. The distant mountains were still enshrouded in clouds but I was more distracted by a cacophony of noises made by street hawkers outside, the clashing of cooking utensils in the midst of passing cars and motorcycles.
I looked at my watch. It was 6.30am Malaysian time, 5.30am in Betong, Thailand, a hidden gem lodged among the mountains. I was there on a short holiday with family and friends.
Betong was once a sleepy border town in the Province of Yala in southern Thailand, famous for its communist hideouts before the Malayan Communist Party was disbanded in 1987 with the signing of the Hatyai Peace Agreement.
Today, it is sleepy no more, though the communist hideouts are still intact with the labyrinth of underground tunnels on the hilltop. The place called Friendship Village has been upgraded and renovated, attracting tens of thousands of curious tourists.
Betong today is a thriving and vibrant tourist town especially popular with Malaysians as it is only a few hours’ drive from Kuala Lumpur northwards via Pengkalan Hulu in Perak.
Someone once commented that Betong was partially built with the Malaysian ringgit. It is not very far from the truth and I would attribute it to the street hawkers who are innovative and hard working.
My hotel is located in the city centre, not far from the Clock Tower, a local landmark and reference point for tourists. In every direction you cast your sight, there are clusters of hawkers trading along the five-foot way, nooks and corners, offering a huge variety of street food both spicy and non-spicy, and absolutely sumptuous.
A feast of local culinary delights at the night market.
Along the sidewalk of the wet market, hawkers sell durians, mangosteens, langsat, guavas, and other types of fruit which are typically local. For durian lovers, August is the season to visit for it’s harvest time. Even petai is in great abundance. Hawkers would beam you a toothy smile and persuade you to take a look at their wares.
Strolling around, I saw shops and stalls around the market offering Thai, Chinese and Malay street foods. There is even a shop selling roti canai and I was told their roti canai is very fluffy and nice. I even spotted a bak kut teh shop. I would say it is indeed a culinary fiesta.
On the third floor of the wet market is a little shopping paradise. From pyjamas to elegant ladieswear, skirts, shorts, long pants for adults and children ... every thing was sold at a bargain.
The good thing is that almost all the hawkers speak some sprinkling of Malay, Mandarin and Cantonese, making bargaining more fun, and a whole lot easier for tourists like us.
In the evening, we walked to the Mongkollit Tunnel or the Tunnel of Light which has been temporarily turned into a pasar malam or shopping mall (whatever you feel fits the description) by the local authorities.
It is a great attraction for locals and foreigners. Besides all sorts of foodstuff to sample, you may want to get a pair of shoes or slippers, buy toys for the children, try on some clothing or fashion accessories ... you name them, they have them.
The tunnel has been turned into a fairyland with colourful lighting.
The writer (second from right) at the entrance of the Friendship Village with his group, lead by Fong Ten Chee (fifth from left).
Of course we did not miss going to Piyamit Tunnel in the Friendship Village. We climbed the hill and went underground following the inter-connected tunnel where the communist operated. There were sleeping berths, training room, and kitchen where the smoke is channelled elsewhere to avoid detection.
They even have a wedding chamber.
Since the last time I was here, the authorities have added a museum which makes the visit more meaningful.
It would take about an hour or perhaps even less to walk the tunnel route before you see day light again. There are two points of interest to take note – a bomb crater with its destructive bomb nicely preserved by its side and a thousand-year-old tree which stands just before the exit to “civilisation”.
By then, you are ready for a round of Thai massage which is easily available in the city, and an authentic Thai lunch.
Betong is said to be founded by a Chinese leader named Yap Swee Hong in 1858.
Personally, this was my second visit to Betong after nearly 10 years and I could safely say that the place is fast catching up with the more popular, more developed and better promoted Hatyai and Songkhla.
Hoo Ban Khee is a former Beijing, China correspondent for The Star. He can be contacted at hoobankhee@gmail.com.
