Poolside at the Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh. — Photos: ABBI KANTHASAMY
Travelling to Phnom Penh in Cambodia, you dive deep into a historical tapestry, each thread pulling you through stories of resilience and beauty.
The city unfolds like a meticulously penned novel, where every architectural detail and whispered corridor echoes a poignant past. The grandeur of the Royal Palace and the hushed reverence of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum bear witness to Cambodia’s complex heritage.
At the core of this rich narrative is the Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Since its inception in 1929, this landmark has stood as the epitome of luxury, a place where history is not merely observed but vividly lived. Adorned with classic French colonial architecture – pristine white facades and elegant wooden shutters – the hotel serves as a testament to an era of sophisticated charm. Historical figures such as Jackie Kennedy and Charles de Gaulle have wandered these halls, their presence still palpable in the polished wood and opulent decor.
Le Royal, the hotel’s signature restaurant, offers a culinary gateway to the past. Beneath ceilings adorned with hand-painted art, the Royal Tasting Menu marries French culinary finesse with the vibrant zest of Khmer cuisine. Each dish is a homage to the legacy of Cambodian royalty and colonial elegance, offering diners an experience where every bite is steeped in history.
The Elephant Bar is home to more than 200 types of gin.
The Elephant Bar here beckons as an illustrious spot for evening cocktails. Home to over 200 types of gin, it’s a paradise for connoisseurs. Here, mixologist Jason leads captivating gin masterclasses, making this bar an essential stop for both enlightenment and enjoyment, all within a setting that exudes colonial-inspired refinement.
Beyond the luxurious confines of Raffles, the city’s culinary scene offers a thrilling contrast of flavours and histories. At Le Manolis, French bistro flair meets Art Deco elegance, creating an ambiance reminiscent of 1920s Paris. The menu, featuring classics like the croque monsieur alongside a selection of fine Bordeaux, transforms dining into a unique experience, whisking guests to the French countryside.
As night falls, the space buzzes with live music and lively chatter, drawing a mix of locals and expats to share stories over cocktails and cigars.
Kravanh, tucked away in a French colonial bungalow, invites guests into the heart of Cambodian cuisine. Founder Toan Ek Sophie’s dedication to organic, locally sourced ingredients ensures dishes like roasted eggplant with minced pork and beef with morning glory not only delight the palate but also embody the spirit of the land. Dining here becomes an act of cultural immersion, with each recipe narrating a chapter of Cambodia’s agrarian roots and culinary heritage.
Cambodian traditional fare.
In the vibrant Daun Penh district, Labaab stands out where chef Rotanak Ros masterfully melds French and Cambodian cooking techniques. The restaurant is famed for its innovative offerings like the Labaab Burger – a delectable fusion of local flavours in a universally cherished form. While the menu is avant-garde, it respects the traditional essence of Khmer cooking, providing a contemporary twist that both surprises and delights those in search of a culinary adventure.
Phnom Penh’s allure extends beyond its food to include leisure activities like golf, adding another layer to its luxurious offerings. The Grand Phnom Penh Golf Club, designed by the legendary golfer Jack Nicklaus and introduced by Burmese expat Win Saw who runs Golf Asian, an agency that organises delightful golf tours, offers not just a game but a regal experience. The meticulously designed course, with its serene environment and lush fairways, provides a perfect escape from urban life.
Kravanh serves authentic Cambodian cuisine.
In Phnom Penh, every experience – from dining in historic establishments to teeing off against a backdrop of verdant landscapes – is imbued with a sense of history and luxury. This city, a blend of French colonial legacy and rich Cambodian culture, presents a narrative as intricate and flavourful as the dishes served upon your plate.
Whether indulging in a gourmet meal at Raffles, exploring the vibrant street food scene, or swinging a club at an exclusive golf course, Phnom Penh invites you to partake in its storied and splendid journey.
Amid the historical ambiance of Raffles, I had the privilege of meeting Princess Chansita Norodom, niece of the current King of Cambodia, Norodom Sihamoni. Over afternoon tea at Le Royal, beneath a hand-painted ceiling of dramatic chandeliers and next to a portrait of her mother (Norodom Buppha Devi), the first public performer of Apsara dance, she shares insights into her role as ambassador for Raffles and the evolution of her country. Her stories, laden with a family history marked by trauma and triumph, enrich our understanding of a Cambodia transitioning from a painful past to a hopeful future, all while maintaining a rich connection to its royal heritage.
The views expressed here are entirely the writer’s own.
Abbi Kanthasamy blends his expertise as an entrepreneur with his passion for photography and travel. For more of his work, visit www.abbiphotography.com.
