Hiker takes wrong trail at Bukit Keteri, gets help from kind stranger


A view of the surrounding area from the cave entrance. — Photos: PEK FOONG FOONG

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Having researched blogs on hiking in Perlis, I decided that Bukit Keteri was the best fit for me based on views, hike time and difficulty level.

Bukit Keteri is a unique karst formation consisting of a limestone tower and cave, ideal for hiking and rock climbing activities. Surrounded by padi fields and scenic countryside, climbers scale the 131m limestone tower for unrivalled panoramic views from the top.

Located in Kampung Bukit Keteri, this outcrop holds a cave that cuts through the entire mountain at a height of about 30m forming various holes and overhangs that cater for steep and photogenic routes.

Starting from Bukit Keteri West shortly after 6pm, I took the right fork towards the limestone tower, following a barely-there trail. The steep incline was slippery as it was littered by dry forest debris. The trail disappeared when it hit a solid vertical wall. I explored the narrow ledge for a bit on either side but could not find the way forward.

Dejected, I turned back.

The two 'nature windows' that look out to Kampung Bukit Keteri.The two 'nature windows' that look out to Kampung Bukit Keteri.

Suddenly, two locals on a motorbike appeared. I enquired about the hiking trail and learnt that it is now rarely used, as caving is the bigger attraction there these days.

“Can you be my guide?” I asked. They hesitated saying it’s almost 7pm and would soon be dark, but I persisted and asked again. I must have looked desperate (but harmless) because finally one of them agreed.

The man, named Jan, added that we could actually continue hiking to the other side for the northern view, if I was quick enough.

Before we started though, he asked me a series of questions, which I thought were all valid as it seemed like he just wanted to assess my ability and fitness level. Basically, Jan asked me how old I was, whether I had the speed, strength and stamina to continue hiking, and whether I could do a rope climb up a slope as well as go up a ladder propped against a near-vertical wall.

After a sloppy start with the rope climb (I slipped twice), I went up the ladder with not much difficulty. At the top of the ladder, I squeezed through the small opening by going up another three rickety steps.

We continued left along the edge, with Jan indicating the way forward. I climbed up another ladder and as soon as I was on the upper ground, I was awestruck by two “nature windows” overlooking the village.

At this point, Jan felt confident that I could make it to the other side, so we pushed on. We went deeper into the cave which was strewn with rocks and boulders of all sizes. The passage involved the occasional jump across deep crevices, descending into the belly of the cave before climbing up the other side.

On the final climb, Jan had to give me a hand as the gap was too high and wide for me.

The writer sitting on a rocky perch, with Bukit Jernih in the background. The writer sitting on a rocky perch, with Bukit Jernih in the background.

Emerging out of the cave mouth, I could truly appreciate the unique sight of limestone hills jutting out randomly amid flat padi fields. We got there at exactly 7.24pm – perfect timing.

Following Jan’s lead, I climbed onto a rocky outcrop, while he carefully perched himself on the edge to capture a picture of me with the setting sun in the background. It was a glorious sunset, even by Jan’s standards, he said.

I could feel his enthusiasm, sincerity and desire to share the beauty of his hometown. He was genuinely happy that I got to witness this magical side of Perlis.

The race against time to get here, culminating with a spectacular sunset was totally justified and immensely satisfying, too.

We sat quietly, enjoying the ethereal natural display as the sky transitioned from day to night. From below, the call to prayer rang out from a nearby mosque.

For the return journey, I wasn’t able to use my cellphone to light the way as I needed both hands for support. I stayed close to Jan, guided by the light from his phone. He was much quicker than me, so each time he turned a corner, I was engulfed by darkness.

Back on the west side, the Bukit Keteri Market carpark down below was ablaze with bright lights so we could see better.

Still, I was careful not to rush the final 30m descent down the two ladders and assisted rope, reaching the bottom just before 8pm.

I had an awesome time, made a new friend and benefited from his hospitality.

I am truly grateful to Jan who agreed to accompany me to the cave just five minutes after meeting me for the first time.

The writer with her ‘new best friend’, Jan.The writer with her ‘new best friend’, Jan.

He says he likes helping people, and I am indeed blessed that our paths crossed that day. The adventure was totally unexpected – climbing up scary ladders, ropes, going quickly through the cave in time to capture fantastic sunset views before navigating back in the dark.

I definitely recommend a visit to Perlis for its back-to-nature adventures, rustic charm, tranquil lakes, serene countryside and friendly locals.

The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.

   

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