Makeshift gazebos next to the river in Kampung Beswok. — Photos: YOON LAI WAN
Nestled in the lush embrace of Malaysia’s Titiwangsa range, Kampung Beswok in Pos Yum, Sungai Siput, Perak is a hidden gem that feels like a dream plucked from the pages of a wanderlust magazine. Just a two-hour drive from Ipoh, this serene village is home to the Temiar Orang Asli.
My maiden journey to this village was a mix of excitement and trepidation, but as soon as I had my first glimpse of Beswok, all doubts went away.
There were 17 of us in the group from all over Malaysia, and we met up in the highlands to explore the rainforest, as well as to learn the art of natural dyeing and eco-printing. We were welcomed at the village by Datuk Fully Chye, founder of the Persatuan Seni Jahitan Kreatif Malaysia, her son Jun Yu, and a team of talented Temiar women. With the help of the association, the Orang Asli in Beswok learned how to be more financially independent through ecotourism activities like by conducting eco-printing workshops, leading eco-adventures and making sustainable crafts.
The Tok Batin or chieftain of Beswok joined us. He shared stories and insights about the Temiar, revealing that “Beswok” means bamboo in their native tongue. The camp featured bamboo chalets and makeshift gazebos with thatched bertam palm leaves. Each chalet offered simple comforts, while the gazebos invited adventurous souls to pitch tents. Campers are allowed to bring their own cooking utensils and dine alfresco.
Foraging for suitable plants with a Temiar guide, to be used in the natural dyeing workshop.
A shallow river meandered through the camp, its clear waters sparkling as it danced over smooth boulders, thus enticing campers to frolic merrily in the gentle ripples. A bamboo bridge enabled us to peer into the tranquil depths below. The scene was nothing short of magical.
Our first task was foraging for items to be used in our workshop. After a hearty meal of durian and fried tapioca dipped in a tantalising green sambal, we ventured into the surrounding forest. Our guides pointed out a variety of herbs and medicinal plants, and we meandered through farms bursting with durian, rambutan and cocoa. I was particularly struck by the cocoa pods – their ripe pulp had a surprising resemblance to mangosteen.
The foraging trail led us to a waterfall, cascading down from a height of about two storeys into a shallow crystal-clear pool. The icy mist was a refreshing delight, and we revelled in the cool embrace of the water.
Returning to camp, we were greeted with a feast prepared in true Indigenous style. Chicken and tapioca pudding were cooked in bamboo over an open flame, while freshly harvested vegetables complemented the meal. The green sambal, a guarded recipe of the Temiar ladies, was a standout, and I wish they would bottle it as “Sambal Beswok” for the world to enjoy.
After lunch, our workshop began. With guidance from our patient instructors, we learned to select vegetation rich in tannins and experimented with the leaves we had collected. Our T-shirts and cotton materials transformed into vibrant tapestries of natural hues, each piece a testament to the beauty of traditional techniques.
Our creativity didn’t stop there. Seated on the ground with our teachers, we tried our hand at weaving the “tempo”, a headgear worn by Orang Asli folk, and crafted bamboo cups. The process was both challenging and rewarding, and I took immense pride in my whimsical handmade creations.
We also dabbled in making tapioca pudding, a sweet treat that perfectly rounded off our day.
The writer (standing third from left) and her group showing off their naturally-dyed T-shirts and cloths.
Before dinner, I wandered to a nearby football field, partially obscured by a pepper farm. There, I witnessed a spirited match among the Temiar men, a reminder of the simple joys and communal spirit of village life.
Dinner was a feast for the senses, featuring a lavish spread of Indigenous dishes and an abundance of durian. As the evening unfolded, a campfire was lit, and we gathered around to sing, dance, and enjoy the celestial show above. The stars stretched across the sky like a kaleidoscopic canvas, and as the night grew colder, the mountain air felt like a gentle caress against our skin.
The following morning, we awoke to beadwork lessons using Job’s Tears, a local plant that grew near the chalets. The intricate patterns we created were mesmerising, a true testament to the artistic skills of the Temiar women.
Our final excursion took us up to another Orange Asli village, a charming mix of brick and bamboo houses. The route was lined with vibrant flowers, and from an elevated viewpoint, we looked down upon our chalets and the mist-shrouded mountains. The vista was breathtaking, a perfect conclusion to an unforgettable journey.
The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.
