I could see the castle from the window, a majestic flag waving in greeting as we drove by, antique walls framed by sun rays making the bricks glow. Or at least, I would have been able to, if it weren’t for the fog.
What a warm welcome to the country. Metaphorically, of course. In reality, my family’s first day in Scotland was freezing, our delicate Malaysian sensibilities too attuned to the heat of our home. The wind blew relentlessly yet somehow the white mist stayed stagnant, just on the edge of raining. Slowly but surely, the droplets added up, getting us and our luggage soaked. The Scottish weather was unforgiving and particularly miserable that day.
For a holiday in Scotland – to send my older sister off to university and maybe to do some shopping while we were there – I had expected our first day to involve wonder and amazement. I had not expected a workout in the form of dragging luggage up and down hills and streets, all while the frigid weather taunted us and the ice-cold wind blew so fast it stung.
Scotland is a long way away from Malaysia – a 16-hour journey for us – and the difference was reflected in every aspect. From the weather to the culture and architecture, there was almost nothing that felt familiar. Even the lifestyle! While Malaysia is all about big malls and driving everywhere, a stay in Edinburgh meant walking for 10 to 15 minutes, sometimes even half an hour in the cold to get anywhere.
The terrain was no help either. Nearly all the roads and curbs were made of cobblestone, making it difficult to walk, even when there is no incline. But everywhere in Edinburgh seemed to have hills and slopes – we were either hiking uphill or carefully walking downhill. It was equally tiring and healthy.
We weren’t the only ones doing the walking, though. There are almost 45,000 university students living in Edinburgh, making up 12% of the city. Everywhere we went, we passed by countless university students, facilities, and lecture halls.
“City campus” was a mild way to put it; it was more like the university was embedded in the infrastructure of the city, blending with the buildings so well, that the entire place may as well serve as a campus.
Despite the large number of university properties scattered around the city, almost all the buildings looked historic – like every one of them was a century old or more. When I think of a city, I would think of skyscrapers and pillars of glass, bustling roads and concrete.
Edinburgh is a city full of bricks and cobblestone, and walls so worn that every building seemed like a castle. Just like the famous Edinburgh Castle, all the architecture is a mix of gothic and Victorian styles.
Sitting on a bench in the cold, eating ice cream from Mary’s Milk Bar, we had a great view of the castle, this time not obscured by fog or trees. In fact, the sky was clear (or, as clear as it could be in Scotland), with brilliant blue shining through a patch within the clouds.
The castle stood on a rocky ledge, as though overlooking everything and everyone, regal in every sense. It was such a huge difference from the market street we were on, but the worn brick walls were a constant no matter where we were in the city.
One of my favourite places was the Scott Monument, a beautiful antique structure right in the middle of Princes Street. We passed by it nearly every day and yet the amazement never wore off. The delicate details and almost regal intricacy made it a prime photography spot. We loved the monument so much, we even got a fridge magnet of it.
Throughout the trip, we switched between shopping and sightseeing, although most of the sights were similar-looking buildings and the occasional tourist trap. My family and I got to join a private university tour of my sister’s campus. We not only got to see various lecture halls, the massive library, and a park called The Meadows, we also learned its history.
My favourite stop on the tour was Edinburgh Futures Institute. Formerly a hospital, the building had recently been renovated into an interdisciplinary unit for the University of Edinburgh. What fascinated me the most about it was how the modern architecture of the newly-built wings clashed with the original. Right in the centre was a clock tower and medieval turrets, and on either side, there were walls of glass and freshly painted walls.
The building is a majestic fusion of present-day and ancient architecture.
Two weeks in Scotland didn’t feel enough for visit. We got used to the routine of waking up in our Airbnb, putting on layers upon layers of clothing, and stepping outside to “test” the temperature. But we did get a glimpse of what my sister’s life would look like for the next four years as a university student.
Touring around, visiting landmarks, and buying souvenirs, this was a vacation. For my sister, this was her new home. As I hugged her goodbye, I could only hope that the city will treat her well.
The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.