The writer (left) with her sister (right) and two of their travel mates at the Gemas Railway Station. — Photos: ISWANDER KAUR
There is something magical about train travel – something that lets you slow down, connect with the world around you, and rediscover the simple joys of exploration. That is exactly what my sister Kulwant and I, along with a group of museum volunteers, experienced on our unforgettable five-day journey along Malaysia’s “Jungle Railway”.
Our group was led by Radzi, who meticulously planned the entire trip. This adventure became more than just a trip through small towns – it was a journey of discovery, history and friendship.
We were a diverse group: Elena, her husband Hao Yang, and their children Elektra and Lucas; Hani and her husband Kamal, Kulwant and myself, and of course, Radzi.
Malaysia’s Jungle Railway, often referred to as one of South-East Asia’s most scenic rail journeys, takes its name from the dense tropical rainforest it cuts through. This railway line, stretching from Gemas in Negri Sembilan to Tumpat in Kelantan, was constructed during British colonial rule, with some sections dating back to the early 20th century. Originally intended to transport goods, the track became pivotal in Malaysia’s history, especially during World War II when the Japanese used it to advance their troops.
The 530km rail line offers a stunning journey through remote, lesser-known parts of Malaysia, where lush jungles, limestone cliffs, and small towns line the route. The track is more than just a transportation link – it’s a living connection to Malaysia’s history, culture and natural beauty.
Our adventure began at KL Sentral as we boarded the train to Gemas, a historic railway town two hours away. Known as a critical junction, Gemas connects the east and west coast railway lines, playing a significant role in Malaysia’s rail network. The town’s railway station, built in 1906, is one of the oldest in the country and has a rich history, particularly during WWII, when it was used by British forces.
Upon arrival, we spent the evening exploring the charming streets of Gemas. There was something comforting about walking through a quiet, historical town, knowing that this was just the beginning of our adventure.
On the next day, we embarked on a six-hour train ride to Kuala Lipis, another town brimming with history. Once a gold-mining centre and the capital of Pahang during British rule, Kuala Lipis has retained much of its colonial charm.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by the irresistible aroma of nasi kerabu and teh ais special, which is topped with a scoop of ice cream. The combination was both refreshing and comforting, quenching our thirst and hunger pangs after the long journey.
One of the highlights of our time in Kuala Lipis was our participation in the Malaysia Day Photo Walk. This event, held across 33 locations in Malaysia, connected us with local amateur photographers who shared their beautiful images of the town and its surrounding landscapes.
As we walked through the streets, taking pictures and chatting with locals like Perumal (shop keeper), Dr Chan (dentist) and Baskaran (florist), we felt a deep sense of connection to the place.
We also took the opportunity to visit an old cemetery which housed many British Veterans who died during WWII and during the emergency in Malaya. One of Radzi’s colleagues who has a friend writing a book on British war heroes was adamant to find the grave of one “Richard Bentham Dixon”.
We were so elated when we found the grave; it was worth our effort plowing through bushes and looking at every tombstone in the cemetery. Finding his resting place was a poignant moment, reminding us of the many untold stories hidden in these small towns.
This quaint town is also home to our famous songbird Datuk Seri Siti Nurhaliza, and is famous for its food like pulut rendang hitam Anak Pak Jamil, which we tried. The combination of sticky rice with tender, flavourful rendang was a taste of pure comfort, and we were more than satisfied by the hearty meal.
Our next stop was Gua Musang, a town surrounded by dramatic limestone hills and caves. We were captivated by the sight of Bukit Gua Musang, a towering hill with a large crack running vertically through it. The hill’s cave system is steeped in legend, adding to the mystery and allure of the place.
The next day we had a six-hour train ride to get to Tumpat, the final station. My sister quickly found a local stall selling traditional Kelantanese kuih, and we indulged in kuih akok and kuih bahulu, both sweet and rich in flavour. From Tumpat, we took a car to Kota Baru, where we were excited to visit Singgora Homestay, a peaceful retreat in the heart of the forest.
The kampung-style homestay offered an authentic countryside experience, complete with traditional Kelantanese cuisine.
After a meal, we visited the Siti Khadijah Market. The market offered a wide array of Kelantanese dishes, from ayam percik to nasi dagang to nasi ulam. Each dish had a distinctive flavour, reflecting the unique culinary heritage of the region.
The writer (right) and Kulwant at the Siti Khadijah Market.
Our final day was spent exploring the rich history and culture of Kota Baru. We visited Istana Jahar, an ornate palace-turned- museum built in 1887 by Sultan Muhamad II. The palace, with its intricate wood carvings, gave us a glimpse into the royal traditions of Kelantan.
The exhibits showcased the region’s cultural heritage, from wedding ceremonies to traditional weaponry like the keris.
We also visited the War Museum, which provided a sobering look at Malaysia’s role in WWII. Items on exhibit include artefacts, photographs and other memorabilia of the war. The outdoor exhibits, featuring military vehicles and artillery, were fascinating, especially a replica of the nuclear bomb used by the Americans in Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Walking through the museum brought history to life, making it a deeply moving experience.
The travellers at a cafe in Kuala Lipis.
Our adventure was a journey through time, history and the warmth of human connection.
The rhythmic hum of the train, the stories of local heroes, and the unforgettable taste of traditional dishes made this trip one of a kind.
It was a powerful reminder of the importance of history and how it shapes our present.
From visiting historic towns like Gemas and Kuala Lipis, to standing at the British Veteran Cemetery, this trip brought history to life. It reminded us of the sacrifices made during WWII and the Malayan Emergency, offering a sobering but necessary reflection on the past.
The lesson here is that history is not just about facts and dates – it is about the people and their stories, and exploring these places gives us a deeper understanding of our shared heritage.
The trip also highlighted how food can be a gateway to understanding culture. We experienced the unique culinary traditions of each region. Food is a reflection of the people, history, and environment of a place.
For anyone seeking a travel experience that nourishes both the mind and the soul, I highly recommend the Jungle Railway journey. Small towns may not always stand out on a map, but they have the power to leave a lasting impression on your heart.
The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.
