One of the best spots on the planet to see the aurora borealis is also the largest and most sparsely populated state in the US. — Photos: FINN HUWALD/dpa
Our journey starts in Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city, which is by the sea and surrounded by mountains. We are heading to Fairbanks, 400km south of the Arctic Circle in the Alaska Interior in the United States.
It’s late September, and a few days earlier, nature began a spectacle of bright, luminous colours.
We head north along the Glenn Highway to Palmer, a farming town on the coast, to the mountains. Some snow-capped peaks stand out against the blue sky in beautiful weather. Alaska, almost five times the size of Germany, is both the largest and most sparsely populated US state. As we travel along the Alaska Route 3 past the occasional village, the landscape gives way to nature.
The driver, Michael Zak, from Minnesota, marvels at the beauty around every bend. I joined the 40-year-old, who works in Fairbanks, on this road trip. We head north along the highway through deciduous forests in every imaginable shade of red, yellow, brown and orange, and through the coniferous forests typical of Alaska. The Indian summer scenery down below contrasts with the wintry, snow-capped mountains.
The Denali National Park attracts around 400,000 visitors every year, which is more than half the population of Alaska. — Photos: FINN HUWALD/dpa
Highest mountain
A little later, the landscape changes to a dark, bushy plain with mountains everywhere. Train racks for the Alaska Railroad train, which is popular among tourists, run along the highway from Anchorage to Fairbanks. After around three hours, we reach the 20,000sq km Denali National Park, which attracts around 400,000 visitors every year – more than half the population of Alaska.
The 6,190m-tall Mount Denali, the highest in North America and which is in the park, was called Mount McKinley until it was renamed in 2015. On a clear day, this Alaskan landmark is visible from Anchorage, more than 200km distant.
We stop at a sign reading “Denali Viewpoint South”. A short path leads up from the river to a lookout with a fantastic view of Denali summit and the snow-capped mountain range below. The expanse of colourful forests below is a feast for the eyes.
The array of bright colours along the route, which is nearly always empty, is breathtaking. Tourists are advised to make sure their petrol tank is near full, as there are few filling stations in between. Alaska is cut off by Canada, in the far north, and is virtually on the outer rim of the world.
Moose are not at all uncommon in Alaska, even near Anchorage, and will often hang around long enough for you to snap a photo.
Civilisation is a long way off as indicated by the signs in Denali National Park. Every parking lot has warnings about bears and moose. And in Alaska, the Big Five includes Dall sheep, wolves and caribou. But the chances of spotting any of them from the highway are slim.
After a six-hour drive, we arrive in Fairbanks. Founded by gold miners, the city with wide streets and no apparent centre offers little incentive to get out of the car and go for a wander. And yet our timing is perfect. The Fairbanks region is one of the best for spotting the northern lights.
We wait for hours in the dark. Suddenly, green lights flit across the sky, eventually turning pink. Everyone is transfixed, gazing at the light show for hours.
They may look cute but you still need to be very careful around bears.
Return journey
The next morning, we head back along the same route back to Anchorage for lack of an alternative route. But there can be no mention of monotony.
“I’ve been to Alaska three times, and it never gets boring,” says Michael. The night was cold, and winter has come to the plains. Small, slightly frozen lakes in which the snow-covered mountains are reflected appear along the route.
About half-way along the highway, a small grizzly bear dashes onto the road. Startled by the car, it reared up to its full height only to flee into the forest. The fleeting moment was gone before I could take a photo but remains one of my lasting memories of this road trip through rugged Alaska. – FINN HUWALD/dpa
Travel notes
How to get there: There are a few flights that go from Kuala Lumpur to Fairbanks in Alaska, with at least two stops in between. Typically, these journeys are – on average – 25 hours long.
When to visit: Every season offers its own appeals. Autumn brings a colourful Indian summer from mid-September onwards. After that, you’ll be travelling through a snowy winter landscape.
Road trip: After a flight into Anchorage, the road trip route described here is just under 600km long. It leads from Anchorage on the coast of the Pacific Ocean northwards via the Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1) to Palmer and from there via the George Parks Highway (Alaska Route 3) through the wilderness of Denali National Park to Fairbanks in the centre of the country.
Alternative train journey: The two largest cities in Alaska are also connected by an Alaska Railroad train route. The journey takes about twice as long as by car, however.
