The writer (second from left) and her friends (from left: Deanna, Charan and Rita) standing on the 180m-long Punakha Suspension Bridge, the longest in Bhutan. — Photos: GURIT KAUR & Friends
Growing up, I read a novel called Lost Horizon and the place it featured captured my imagination. There was no mention of where exactly this place was, but years later, I learnt of a faraway land where the success of the nation was measured by the happiness of their people. Thus began my dream of wanting to visit Bhutan.
I knew it was an expensive place to visit and there were limitations on how many visitors could enter the country, so I was never able to make my way there for years. The dream never left me, though.
Don't forget to look out the window for this view of the Himalayan ranges, just before landing at the airport in Paro.
Fast forward a few years later, and I am in my late 50s. I mention this dream of mine to my friends – Charan, Rita and Deanna. They were as keen as I was to visit Bhutan, so the cogs began to turn. We saved, we researched, we planned, we invited others. The group grew, then shrunk. There were multiple itineraries which saw multiple changes.
Finally, the four of us settled on a tour, and booked a Drukair flight to Bhutan via Bangkok, Thailand.
The Paro International Airport is famously known as one of the most challenging airports in the world to land a plane. There are supposedly 50 pilots in the world who are licensed to land there. In fact, only the national carriers – Drukair and Bhutan Airlines – services the country.
The reason for this soon became apparent as we drew closer to Bhutan and caught a glimpse of the Himalayan ranges. As we neared Paro, the plane suddenly did a sharp swerve and tilt before sweeping into a valley – the pilot made the most amazing landing!
We were greeted by our guide Tandin and driver Dawa. While on our way to the hotel, they stopped the car to show us some beautiful sights.
The four friends at the Punakha Dzong, the administrative centre of Punakha District in Bhutan.
The Punakha Dzong, the administrative centre of Punakha District, all lit up at night.
We also saw some white prayer flags fluttering on the hillsides, which made us wonder about the tenacity of the local people: How they made the journey all the way up just to plant prayer flags and ensure their loved ones’ souls are at peace.
Day after day, we were taken on one magical experience after another. One of them was white water rafting, my first ever experience of it. The water was cold, the scenery was beautiful and the screams were loud, but the boat guide gave us the best time.
We also walked across the popular Punakha Suspension Bridge which swayed as we made our way across. To add to the excitement, by the time we made our way back across, it had gotten so dark that we had to turn on our cellphone torches to help us see.
The highlight of the entire trip of course was the hike up to the Paro Taktsang or Tiger’s Nest monastery. We had done our best to read up on what the hike would entail prior to our trip, but I guess it just wasn’t enough to prepare us for the actual day.
We began or journey at 7.30am with Tandin, who hiked with us and took care of everyone. Deanna was the fittest among us and decided to walk all the way up while the rest of us rented horses to take us to the halfway point, where there is a cafeteria. If you have never ridden a horse up a steep, rocky, narrow path before, you would probably be holding on for dear life like we did.
We were so amazed at the ease with which our horse handlers did the hike though.
At the cafeteria, we got our first proper glimpse of Paro Taktsang. It seemed like just a short walk from there – everyone has to continue on foot from that point – to the monastery, but in reality it took us another hour or so to reach the place. (Overall, it took us three hours to get there from the entry point.)
The memory of hiking up Paro Taktsang or Tiger’s Nest hike will stay with the writer and her friends (from left: Gurit, Deanna, Tandin, Rita and Charan) forever. — Photos: Handout
It was quite an emotional moment for all of us, as that was the culmination of two years’ of planning, preparing and saving.
A group hug later, we were taken on a tour of the ancient sacred site. Magical, awe inspiring, humbling are just some of the words that I can think of to describe the experience.
The journey down was not any easier as it took us another three hours, and this time without the horses. Our knees definitely took a beating by the time we got back.
We finally reached the starting point at 4.30pm, where we were greeted by Dawa, who had prepared a picnic for us to enjoy.
Our day did not end there as we were later taken for a traditional hot stone bath to soothe our sore muscles.
On other days we visited lots of temples and other attractions. Before we knew it, we had to say goodbye to this magical land. Bhutan was all that we had imagined and more. Bhutanese are the gentlest, kindest and sweetest people we had ever met, and we thank everyone for showing us such wonderful hospitality.
We will be back.
The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.
