A mystical journey through Kandy’s colonial vestiges


The highland life is simple, calm and peaceful. — Photos: ABBI KANTHASAMY

As I ventured into the heart of Sri Lanka’s highlands, Kandy unfolded like a vivid tapestry, woven with threads of its colonial past and the lush, green vibrancy of its famous tea plantations.

My base was the W15 Hanthana Estates, a property that doesn’t just offer guests a stay – it’s a plunge into a bygone era. This place is pure, distilled colonial nostalgia, packaged within the walls of a luxurious, five-star estate, echoing the days when estate owners, known as “Planters”, shaped the fortunes of this island.

Stepping into W15 Hanthana is like walking into a sepia-toned photograph where the air is crisp, and every corner tells a story of opulence and old-world charm. From the architecture to the ambience, it’s a reverent nod to its colonial roots, yet equipped with the trappings of modern luxury.

The estate offers a variety of experiences that blend the rugged natural beauty of the area with its storied past. There are hikes and 4x4 trails winding through the expansive property, and in a stroke of sheer brilliance, they set up a bivouac in the middle of the jungle.

There, amidst the chirping of crickets and the rustle of the trees, I sipped on Colombo Gin – a local spirit that captures the essence of Sri Lanka in a bottle. Paired with tonic, it brought to mind the old English days of sundowners and tales of the Raj.

The local cuisine in Kandy is a fiery dance of flavours.The local cuisine in Kandy is a fiery dance of flavours.

Kandy is a city draped over hills and valleys, where flat lands are rare but cricket grounds are not – this is Sri Lanka, after all, where cricket is less sport than religion. The weather here carries a coolness that mingles with the scent of pine mixed with local flora, creating a climate that feels almost temperate yet distinctly tropical.

Culinary adventures in Kandy are as vibrant and varied as its landscapes. The local cuisine is a fiery dance of flavours – roti, pol sambol, dhal curry, and an array of spiced rice that make each meal a colourful dream.

One also cannot visit Kandy without delving into its tea culture.

At a local tea factory, the ritual of high tea is a ceremonial affair, a tribute to the leaf that shaped the fortunes of this region.

Kandy’s blue buses add a pop of colour to the city’s busy roads.Kandy’s blue buses add a pop of colour to the city’s busy roads.

Here are some other attractions in Kandy that are worth checking out:

1. The Sacred Temple of the Tooth

This is the home of Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic – a tooth of the Buddha. The temple is a cultural and spiritual epicentre with daily rituals that are a spectacle of reverence and beauty.

2. Peradeniya Botanical Gardens

A sprawling paradise of flora, boasting a collection of orchids, a fragrant spice garden, and rows of royal palms. It’s a living gallery that illustrates the diverse botanical beauty of the island.

3. Kandy Lake

Built in 1807 by King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, a stroll around this serene lake offers picturesque views and a calming counterpoint to the bustling city streets.

Kandy is famous for its tea plantations.Kandy is famous for its tea plantations.

4. Kandy View Point

Catch a panoramic view of the city from this elevated spot, which is especially breathtaking at sunset when the city lights begin to twinkle.

5. Bird watching and wildlife

Kandy’s natural setting is a paradise for not just bird watchers but wildlife enthusiasts, too. Whether it’s spotting the majestic black eagle, the swift shaheen falcon, or the vibrant hanging parrot, the region is teeming with avian life.

And for the fortunate few, glimpses of leopards roaming the Hanthana mountain range add a thrill to the adventure.

6. The Pekoe Trail

Starting right at the W15 Hanthana Estate, the Pekoe Trail offers a scenic and cultural hiking experience through the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country.

This trail is a must-do for nature lovers and those seeking a mix of adventure and cultural immersion.

Each moment in Kandy is a step back in time, a brush with history, all while nestled in the lap of luxury at W15 Hanthana.

This trip was more than just a journey; it was a vivid chapter straight out of a storybook, set in a city where the legacy of tea and time are forever intertwined.

The views expressed here are entirely the writer’s own.

Abbi Kanthasamy blends his expertise as an entrepreneur with his passion for photography and travel. For more of his work, visit www.abbiphotography.com.

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