Admire small villages along the Mosel River while on the train from Koblenz.
Before heading off to the Mosel (or Moselle) Valley in Germany for a wine tour, I had read that it was one of the most picturesque wine regions in the world. The Ruwer River flows into the Mosel which then snakes its way down to Koblenz on the Rhine.
I did a little more research and realised that I needed to travel by train directly from Frankfurt Airport to Koblenz, and then take a regional train up to the middle Mosel. While the Mosel vineyards extend up to the historic town of Trier, it was the star-studded stretch from Zeltingen to Bernkastel that was to be my base.
After spending a few exciting days sampling various Riesling wines from the most recent vintage to one dating back to 1976, I can confirm this part of Germany is indeed an exciting destination for enjoying the finer things of life.
With so many villages from which to choose, it was difficult for me to decide where to base myself, but Zeltingen won after I read about Zeltinger-Hof. This small hotel is located near the village square by the riverside that was accessible by bus from Wittlich.
While there are no dramatic Instagrammable sights in the village, I spent my time simply wandering along cobblestoned streets to admire the town’s heritage buildings, dropping into one of several wine outlets, and enjoying coffee overlooking the river.
For those seeking a little more action, nearby Bernkastel may be a better option, as it is set up for mass tourism with numerous souvenir shops, restaurants, and transport nodes such as scenic boat charters along the river.
The Zeltingen precinct has a long history of wine-making.
Explore old towns such a Zeltingen with cobblestoned streets and half-timber houses.
Riesling region
The Mosel is one of the world’s oldest wine regions, where wines have been produced here for over 1,800 years. The wine world has been constantly amazed that the Romans cultivated grapes so far north.
Various religious orders have been involved in producing sacramental wines over the centuries with many farmers growing grapes for abbeys, bishops, and monks. For example, the whole of the Zeltingen precinct was a fief of the Archbishop of Cologne, and the farmers were his sharecroppers.
I had read that these farmers toiled in the steep-sloping vineyards, and the time of day was determined by large sundials that stood, and still do in some cases, amongst the vines.
Appreciating German wines can be a little daunting to the uninitiated because of the names on the label, but fear not, sip and savour the luscious flavours of the mostly white wines that are produced in the Mosel region.
In general, the wines of the Mosel are fruity, low in alcohol (often only 8% as opposed to 14% for many other wines), and sweet. The wines are among the lightest in Germany (possibly the world), which means that they are easy to drink with little side effect.
They are rarely aged in oak barrels and are named according to the ripeness of the grapes. Grapes are harvested when the winegrower is satisfied with the ripeness and sugar content of the fruits on the vine. This is where it gets a little complicated as these styles all have Germanic names, but work your way through that as the grapes are well worth sampling.
These styles range from Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein, and Trockenbeerenauslese. Quite a mouthful, but believe me, they are all luscious wines.
The last three wine styles have high sugar levels and are very sweet, but are among the world’s most luscious dessert wines. These are often sold in half bottles (375ml) and are golden yellow and slightly syrupy when poured. In very, very cold years, Eiswein (ice wine) is made from grapes that actually freeze on the vine to produce an intensely sweet wine. These wines are usually served with sweet desserts or dishes with a high fat content, such as foie gras.
While the Mosel is located much further north than most other global wine regions, the river valley acts as a suntrap to provide ideal growing conditions. Reflected heat from soil that comprises chunks of slate rock, the winds, autumnal mists, and long summer days add to the microclimatic conditions so essential to producing the region’s unique wines.
Wines from single sites generally produce the finest wines, and many visitors will be impressed at the affordability of Mosel wines, even some of the older vintages.
Dine in restaurants overlooking the Mosel River. — Photos: DAVID BOWDEN
Festive wines
Mythos Mosel, staged annually in May, is a weekend-long celebration of Riesling grapes. Over 100 wineries along a 20km stretch of the Mosel open their cellars during the weekend. Mythos Mosel attracts thousands of visitors who travel here to sample the wines from recent harvests.
Each estate invites wine lovers to taste the wines in a relaxed atmosphere at their wineries, which are located along a section of the river. On these days, visitors not only have the opportunity to taste the wines of the winemakers and guest winemakers but also to take a closer look at the vineyards and their special features.
Hop-on, hop-off shuttle buses transport visitors from winery to winery, and in the evening, food, drink, and good music are offered at many winery events. However, the various Mythos Mosel stops are also easily reached by bike, and the best views of the beautiful wine region’s diverse landscape are viewed while cycling at a relaxed pace along the mostly flat cycle paths.
Notable winemakers showcase their wines during Mythos Mosel. German wines sold in Asia, such as those from Dr Loosen, Fritz Haag, and Selbach-Oster, were available, as were leading Mosel producers like Carl Loewen, Julian Haart, K.J. Thul, Joh Jos Prüm, Willi Schaefer, Maximin Grünhaus, and Max Ferd Richter.
Visit wine estates like Will Schaefer in Graach an der Mosel.
Local accommodation
While the Mosel will especially appeal to those who like to match wine with hearty local dishes, it attracts tourists for many reasons. Many come to explore old villages like Zeltingen, located on either side of the river.
Zeltinger-Hof is a delightful boutique hotel in the centre of Zeltingen village. This quaint heritage hotel is most inviting, and owner Markus Reis is a welcoming host who also oversees the kitchen. In the Mosel, honest plain cooking served in inns like Zeltinger-Hof is known as gutbürgerliche küche (loosely translated as “simple kitchen”). Diners here can select from the staggering 1,200 wines on the list or even some older vintages stored deep in the hotel’s cellar (wine connoisseurs should ask Markus to inspect the cellar).
Schloss Lieser is a luxurious heritage hotel located within a grand building, with an adjoining winery. This stately stone mansion includes Puricelli Restaurant, bar, spa, sauna, and gym. Sunday brunch at the Orangerie is a highlight for many guests.
While wine provides a great incentive for visiting the Mosel, the region’s picturesque scenery, inviting villages, homely restaurants, welcoming inns, microbreweries, and safe bike paths, ensure it’s a popular tourist destination. The warmer weather from June to October is the best time to visit.Travel notesHow to get there: Both Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia X fly to London and Paris from Kuala Lumpur, but you would need to get a connecting flight to Frankfurt after that. There are also international carriers that fly to Frankfurt, like KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, which goes via Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport.
From Frankfurt Airport, catch a Deutsche Bahn train that goes directly to the Mosel; it takes just two hours via Koblenz and Wittlich. From the latter, take a taxi or bus to one of several villages mentioned and along the banks of the Mosel.
Enjoy delicious dishes such as Wiener schnitzel. -- DAVID BOWDEN
TRAVEL NOTES
Where to stay: Zeltinger-Hof (zeltinger-hof.de) offers hotel rooms as well as apartment rooms throughout the village.
Info: Mythos Mosel 2025 (mythos-mosel.de) will be held in May along a stretch of the Mosel between Detzem and Wintrich. Visit Mosel (visitmosel.de) has all the details on this magical part of Germany.Tips: Save money and use a German Rail Pass for flexibility in visiting various destinations in the country over a number of days.
