The Wat Phou site contains two stone palaces. — Photos: DAVID BOWDEN
Wat Phou (Vat Phou) in southern Laos – officially known as the Lao People’s Democratic Republic – some 45km southwest of Pakse, is a significant archaeological site that is recognised by Unesco as a World Heritage Site.
The open-air site on the western side of the Mekong River dates back to the fifth century, but the remains of the stone temple (also known as Wat Phu), that visitors now visit, date back to the 11th century.
Interestingly, Wat Phou, which translates to “temple mountain”, predates Angkor Wat, the most famous Khmer site located in neighbouring Cambodia.
Those who make the somewhat arduous journey to Pakse and Wat Phou will appreciate just how important Khmer culture once was in this part of the region. While many are familiar with Angkor, which was the epicentre of Khmer culture, its influence radiated out in most directions from present-day Cambodia, extending to Thailand, Laos and Vietnam.
As an indication of its regional importance, Wat Phou is 400km from Angkor, and a journey covering such a distance between the 11th and 13th centuries would have taken many days, or even weeks.
Wat Phou’s remote location means that few visitors venture to the archaeological site.
The Khmer Empire had extended into northern Thailand by the sixth century, and some of the most famous ancient sites in that country include Phimai, Khorat, Prasat Sikhoraphum (between Surin and Sisaket), and Prasat Hin Phanom Rung (south of Buriram).
All these brick and stone monuments were erected throughout the Khmer Empire between the seventh and 14th centuries. These temples were all palaces of the gods, and they were meant as replicas on Earth of the heavenly world.
Wat Phou was initially dedicated to Hindu gods, principally Shiva and Vishnu, but sometime later (the late 12th century), it aligned itself with Buddhism. Hinduism did not exclude incorporation of other religious elements, and traces of a variety of Buddhist doctrines may be seen in many Khmer temples.
Now little more than a ruin, the location, recognised by Unesco in 2001 as the Champasak Cultural Landscape, is one of Asia’s most important religious sites.
Wat Phou is a one-hour drive southwest of Pakse, and road access can be problematic, especially during the wet season.
Checkpoint Pakse
Pakse, the third largest city in Laos, is located at the confluence of the Mekong and Don Rivers. The 1.4km-long Lao-Nippon Bridge, built in 2000, spans the Mekong here to provide vehicular access to Pakse and southern Laos.
There is a sense of frontier mayhem with the daily ebb and flow of everyday life, a feature of border crossings such as the Chong Mek/Vang Tao immigration/customs control checkpoints on the road that extends westward from Laos to Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand.
Pakse, the capital of the Champasak Province, is a pleasant riverside city that makes a good base for exploring the region, including the Mekong, Wat Phou, and the Bolaven Plateau.
Everyone loves a market, and there are several to visit in Pakse. The main one is Talat Dao Heung, a semi-open-air market that begins before dawn and ends at dusk. It is best known for its fruit, vegetables, and groceries, but there are household utensils and some souvenirs as well.
Le Panorama Rooftop Restaurant on the seventh floor of the Pakse Hotel is a great central venue for admiring the city and where the Don River flows into the Mekong. Arrive when it opens at 4.30pm and get a table to admire the sunset over the Mekong and enjoy happy hour drink prices from 5pm to 6pm.
Intricate carvings line some of the stone structures at Wat Phou.
Another riverside venue is the View Bar, a floating restaurant and bar on the banks of the Mekong River. It is worth noting that some venues in Pakse feature live bands later in the evening, and most only know one volume, ear-shatteringly loud.
One of the most popular dishes served in Pakse restaurants is noodle soup, known as kao piek. This dish is typically made with thick rice noodles that are served in a rich broth, accompanied by chicken or pork, herbs and vegetables. Tam mak hoon, or spicy papaya salad, is another dish that many visitors will enjoy.
Coffee is grown on the Bolaven Plateau above Pakse, and it’s not surprising that there are numerous coffee outlets in the city centre. Amore Cafe, Vida Bakery Cafe, and 124 Thaluang Cafe serve excellent local coffee and bakery items, while 124 Thaluang also sells some excellent souvenirs made from local textiles.
Temple stay
There is no accommodation at the heritage site with the nearest guesthouses in Champasak, some 10km to the north. This small riverside town that extends along the Mekong was once a seat of Lao royalty.
Visitors with a sense of adventure can stay in Champasak and use a motorbike, bicycle (only for the super fit), tuk tuk, or songthaews (a converted utility vehicle) to visit Wat Phou.
It’s my suggestion that you stay in Pakse and travel from there to Wat Phou. The most impressive accommodation in the provincial capital is in the Champasak Grand Hotel, with extensive gardens overlooking the Mekong.
Check out the variety of vegetables and fruits available at Pakse's Dao Heung Market.
However, visitors to Pakse need to appreciate that they’re in a remote part of the world and that maintaining international hospitality standards can often be challenging. That said, the comfortable rooms in the hotel have good views; there is a pool, gym, indoor and outdoor riverside restaurants, and opportunities exist for enjoying a chilled Beer Lao or two.
Most Asean countries have opened their borders to enable tourism to sites such as Wat Phou. Even many remote border crossings are open during daylight hours, but visas normally must be approved well in advance for those border controls that are far from their respective capitals.
Intrepid travellers driving their own vehicle could, for example, continue eastward from Pakse into Vietnam via the Phou Keau border crossing.
While it is possible to travel between all the above sites, it is best to check with the various embassies regarding border crossings and the need for some nationalities to obtain visas in advance.
Wondrous Khmer sites like Wat Phou are now accessible, especially to those who enjoy venturing along paths less travelled. Travel notes
Travel Notes
How to get there: There are direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Vientiane on AirAsia, after which you would need to take a domestic flight to Pakse, which is the nearest airport. The airport at Ubon Ratchathani in eastern Thailand is also near Wat Phou. Pakse is the most convenient, however, as there are also flights from Bangkok and even Ho Chi Minh (Vietnam). It makes good sense to include Pakse in a tour of Laos, which could also include Luang Prabang and Vientiane (a new train service connects both these destinations).
The real challenge is the 45km journey to Wat Phou along an often arduous road. Independent travellers are advised to join a tour group in Pakse.
Where to stay: While budget accommodation is available in the small village of Champasak, most visitors will stay in Pakse and make a day visit to the heritage site. Champasak Grand Hotel is the “grandest” hotel in Pakse in more ways than one.
When to visit: The laterite road to Wat Phou can be tortuous, so the dry season (November to March), is the preferred time to visit. This is also the coolest season. March to May (the build-up to the monsoon) is hot and humid, while the wet season (May to October) may present challenges on the laterite roads.
Visa: Malaysians can of course travel to Laos without a visa, but many other nationalities may require one. E-visa approvals can be arranged online (fees range from US$30-US$45/RM135-RM203), and take at least three days to be processed. An approval letter will be issued via email; this letter needs to be presented upon arrival, when the visa is issued.
Visitors to Pakse would need to cross this bridge over the Mekong River.
