Thriving on creative fuel

Visitors browsing through the stalls and tucking into grub from local vendors at Hin Bus Depot. — Photos: LIM BENG TATT/The Star

ASK locals in Penang for recommendations on places to visit and chances are you may hear them say Hin Bus Depot.

The arts and culture space fronting Jalan Gurdwara in George Town is always abuzz with activities and a microcosm of the state’s creative energy and vibrancy.

From indoor and outdoor art exhibitions to musical performances, film screenings and weekend bazaars, it attracts visitors old and young alike from far and wide.

The bazaars, known as the Hin Market and held every Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 5pm, are brimming with hidden gems and great for spending a few leisurely hours.

Hin Bus Depot gallery manager Wanida Razali said Saturday sessions were thematic and collaboration-based while those on Sunday feature independent local artisans, vendors and producers.

“We started the market in 2015 to give entrepreneurs a platform to showcase their unique offerings.

“There were only six vendors then but numbers steadily grew.

“Today, there are around 70 selling everything from handicraft to food, clothing, accessories, art and even plants.

“We added musical performances to enliven the atmosphere,” she continued.

The place was crowded when StarMetro visited during the school holidays.

Some went from stall to stall in the main gallery building and events deck to hunt for items, while others sat back on lawn chairs to tuck into appetising grub not too far from the iconic Komtar Tower.

Among those visiting were Howie Chang and his wife Joy Cheong, both 39.

They see such events as opportunities to support homegrown businesses.

“We come here quite often for family outings.

“I love farmers’ and crafts markets as we can find things that are not typically available in shopping centres,” said Chang.

Canadian tourist Morgan Kievits, 20, was on a stopover in Penang on a trip around Malaysia and made a point to check out the place after reading about it online.

At the time of writing, Hin Bus Depot was ranked 14th out of 138 things to do in George Town on travel website TripAdvisor, with a rating of 4.5 out of 5 from 151 reviews.

“It seemed to be one of the must-visit places and it did not disappoint.

“The buildings and art are cool. Overall, it’s a fun place to be,” said Kievits.

That sentiment was shared by fellow tourists Rika Fukuzumi, 36, and Kanae Tsuru, 37, from Japan.

They were also exploring Penang when they were directed to the venue by chance.

“We came to Penang for the food and beaches.

“But when we were buying something, a shop assistant recommended that we check this place out.

“I love the atmosphere. You can shop, enjoy a bite or two and listen to music,” Fukuzumi said of the market, which is one of the longest-running in Penang.

Boon for local producers

The Hin Market has been an invaluable platform for small local entrepreneurs wanting to establish their brand and obtain a wider customer base.

Among them is Felicia Teh, 29, who has been selling her Glittery Daisyy range of handcrafted polymer clay jewellery here since 2018.

Her earrings and brooches are intricately detailed with layered motifs, and many are one-of-a-kind.

“The exposure here has been tremendous.

“Many tourists who buy pieces continue to order from me online after returning to their countries.

“Some even recommended me to their friends.

“Locals also like my accessories as I keep prices affordable and the designs are different from what mass market brands offer,” Teh pointed out.

Those passing by Gabrielle Gooi’s Candles and Crafty Art kiosk often have to do a double take.

The desserts and animals on display are actually soy and beeswax scented candles.

“The crowd that comes here are on the lookout for creative products, so it’s a good platform for artisans,” said Gooi, 40.

“I get many new customers every weekend. It’s rewarding when people appreciate the fruits of your labour,” she added.

The food stalls are spread across the depot’s vast compound offering everything from cakes, biscuits and snacks to pizzas, burgers, oysters, hawker food as well as wines and cocktails.

Nui Kopi founders Oh Chin Eng, 35, and Neoh Shin Yen, 36, who have been serving Vietnamese egg coffee for several years, urge budding entrepreneurs to give Hin Market a try.

“What makes it special is its commitment to promoting locals.

“There’s a large crowd to tap into every weekend so it’s a good first step towards fulfilling your dreams,” Oh commented.

Jooze Up manager Mindy Tang, 25, said her company was able to grow into a physical store after starting at the market many years ago.

They still maintain a presence at the bazaar as the exposure helps.

A Tibetan expatriate only known as Sonam, 47, runs a stall called Yak Yum Yum with his wife.

They offer Tibetan snacks like momos which are meat dumplings.

“Everybody loves food in Penang and we wanted to add to the melting pot. These are my mother’s recipes and I’m proud to be able to share my culture,” he said.

“There’s also a healthy environment here. Vendors do not see each other as competition.”

Filling a niche

Hin Bus Depot manager Tan Shih Thoe is pleased with how the market and venue has grown over the years.

While the Covid-19 pandemic presented a temporary setback, things have gradually returned to normal following the easing of restrictions and reopening of international borders.

Malaysians are also opting to travel domestically because of the weaker ringgit and this brings visitors from across the country.

“From the start, our aim is to give small independent vendors a platform,” said Tan.

“We realised it could be hard for many to establish themselves as renting a space in shopping centres or setting up physical stores in Penang could be costly.

“Through Hin Market, these business owners can test the waters and gauge consumer response without a hefty upfront investment.

“They can then grow their brand over time. We hope it serves as a springboard for future successes,” he added.

Tan was also cognisant of the lack of performing arts venues in Penang and allowed the space to be used by musicians, entertainers and even local fitness groups.

It is all part of a conscious effort to support the local arts community and give creatives from all disciplines a platform to be seen, heard or simply do what they love.

The place has come a long way from its early days.

According to Wanida, Hin Bus Depot’s story of rejuvenation began in January 2014 when Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic, best known for his murals in Penang, sought a space for his first solo exhibition titled “Art is Rubbish is Art”.

The then-derelict space was a perfect fit for his pieces made from pre-loved and discarded items.

“Having invested so much time, love and effort into the project, the team of local creatives could not just let the space go.

“This provided an impetus to turn it into something more permanent.

“It evolved into a community project run on the belief that there should be no limit to the expression of art.

“Today, our small but passionate collective continues to sustain it as a space that supports creative endeavours of all kinds,” said Wanida.

Bridging past and present

The depot was built by Hin Company Ltd, one of the many private bus companies that sprang up following the Second World War, on what was then known as Brick Kiln Road.

Completed in 1947, it was used to house and service the iconic blue buses that travelled from George Town to Tanjung Bungah and Teluk Bahang.

In its heyday, it was regarded as the most stylish bus depot around with its Art Deco architecture standing out against the city’s mostly Victorian and Georgian-styled buildings.

These original features, like the vertical geometric detailing above entrances, can still be seen on the facade today.

After Koperasi Gabungan Negeri absorbed Hin Company in 1973, it became known as KGN Hin Bus Co.

But with Penang revamping its public transport at the turn of the millennium, the blue buses became a thing of the past and the depot closed in 1999.

Lying vacant for over a decade, time and weather took its toll on the structure.

It was acquired by a company owned by three families in 2010, though it took Zacharevic’s exhibition in 2014 for the once utilitarian building to assume a more creative role.

Walls that once resonated with the sound of diesel engines became canvasses for art.

A new alfresco events deck was added outside the main gallery, while a collapsed structure was turned into a mural garden and mini skate park.

Spaces overgrown with wild plants became open-air lawns.

Altogether, the space now covers over 60,000sq ft as it includes many ancillary buildings such as eight shophouses on Jalan Gurdwara and three on Jalan Kampung Jawa Lama.

The latest component is COEX @ Kilang Besi which occupies several structures at the rear of the compound.

Previously a scrapmetal yard, it was taken over by ALM Architects and turned into an office and community-oriented space that can be used by local artists, musicians, chefs, performers and others.

ALM founder Mei Chee Seong described it as a blank canvas to be painted by the community, because everybody has their own idea of what Penang is.

“When you give people the freedom to contribute, they will come up with things that in turn inspire others.

“It is a space to push boundaries,” he added.

Among the current businesses there is Penang Book Island, an indie bookshop run by Chong Lee Choo who said it filled vital gaps in the market.

“Such spaces are conducive for smaller entities like us as it connects us with the right crowd that is seeking more localised items and experiences,” she opined.

As parking remains a challenge in space-constrained George Town, Wanida advised those planning to visit Hin Bus Depot to either carpool or use ehailing service.