Tean torching the garnishes atop his Tears of Mars omakase cocktail, for added fragrance.
Cocktail omakase takes guests on a drinks adventure in Gurney Drive
LIFE can be full of surprises and some of the most tantalising ones come in an omakase.
This is not the ritualised Japanese haute dining trend you are probably thinking of, but a variation that involves top-shelf spirits and innovative mixologists instead.
The cocktail omakase at Penang Marriott Hotel’s The Great Room brings the same sense of intrigue and adventure, only in alcoholic form.
Omakase literally translates to “I leave the details up to you”. But rather than the traditional chef, here are the mixologists – specifically Josh Tean and Evan Chang – who craft a bespoke experience for the customer.
The 14-seater bar located off the main lobby feels much like a theatre. Low chairs are a deliberate design choice, so the creation of libations can be taken in like an artistic performance.
Anchoring the intimate yet airy space is a 10m-long white marble bar. Shades of copper and black add classy elegance, while the back wall features dramatically-lit chests filled with spirit bottles and unique house infusions.
Tean is a self-confessed foodie who finds Penang’s rich culinary heritage and traditions a good source of inspiration.
“Drinkers are more adventurous nowadays and a cocktail omakase caters to their desire for the unexpected. We gauge their preferences, aversions and moods before prescribing a suitable tonic,” added Tean.
Snacks like (from bottom to top) Soy Salmon and Daun Kesum Puri, Little Drummet Boys and Zero-Oil Duck Crackers are great accompaniments to the drinks.
Surrendering myself to his ingenuity, I am presented with the Childhood Margarita, which had soy sauce − of all things − mixed with tequila, Cointreau and pineapple syrup.
“Back in the day, my grandma taught me to dip pineapple in soy sauce before eating, as salt deactivates the natural fruit enzymes that make the tongue itch,” Tean said of his inspiration.
Next came Tears of Mars with bright orange hue meant to evoke volcanic lava.
It was quickly apparent why – as tabasco and wasabi put up a fiery salute, before dissipating to allow the botanical notes of gin, nutmeg and Aperol to linger.
The hotel’s food and beverage director P. Suryaprakash said the omakase approach reflected their desire to introduce the latest global bar trends to the Penang market.
“Not many hotels offer customised cocktails, but we have a great team and a venue to match. We also made sure to keep prices competitive with local speakeasies,” he said.
On-the-fly creations aside, the bar also offers a selection of signature artisanal cocktails such as the GSOP or Great Room’s Strong O’Peng.
While the name plays on the type of brandy used, the tipple is also an ode to Malaysian kopitiam culture and a timeless beverage – local black coffee.
As it is typically made from Robusta beans roasted with sugar and margarine, the much-loved bitter and caramel notes are front and centre.
The GSOP or Great Room’s Strong O’Peng is an ode to local kopitiam culture and strong black coffee.
Coconut water lightens it up and makes the drink a very quaffable one.
“We try to capture the essence of Penang and show that humble ingredients can translate into sophisticated tipples,” said Tean, who was a Top 12 finalist in the Monin Cup Malaysia 2022.
Ever one to push the boundaries, he also created the Katsuo Donburi – which mixes bonito (fermented skipjack tuna) infused sake with cherry tomato, wasabi, bergamot peel, shiso leaf, and sugar.
Imagine a savoury dashi broth, but ice cold and much more delicate and nuanced.
The Black Diamond, made with dark chocolate-infused bourbon, black truffle fat-washed sweet vermouth, bitters and charcoal powder is equally thought- provoking with every sip.
“Cocktails have traditionally been sweet, sour or bitter, but savoury ones now open up myriad possibilities. Every drink can be a journey of discovery,” Tean added.
Besides the innovative creations, The Great Room also offers an extensive master list of old and new world wines, including the much-vaunted 1952 Chateau Lafite Rothschild.
There are also snacks if you want to munch, like the addictive Zero-Oil Duck Crackers, crispy Soy Salmon and Daun Kesum Puri, or fragrant Little Drummet Boys with citrus powder.
The bar regularly hosts guest shifts and master classes too, with the next one featuring whisky set for July 3 at 7.30pm. It is priced at RM78 nett per person and includes canapes.
THE GREAT ROOM, Level 1, Penang Marriott Hotel, Gurney Drive, George Town, Penang. (Tel: 04-566 1888)
Business hours: 9am to 1am, daily.
This is the writer’s personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.
