Lesser known varieties a hit with durian lovers


Ong serving the fruits to the media, councillors and community leaders during the durian party held at Leng Durian Stall along Anson Road. — K.T. GOH/The Star

WHEN one thinks of good Penang durian, the famous Musang King and Black Thorn varieties often come to mind.

But, some less-heralded local variants could definitely hold their own for complexity of flavour, fragrance and luscious mouthfeel.

This includes the Puppet King, better known by its Chinese moniker “Kong Zai Wang”, which comes from a farm in the Pondok Upeh area in Balik Pulau on the southwestern part of the island.

With flesh that is slightly pale yellow, the Puppet King variety has the bittersweet taste and creaminess that durian lovers prize.

Harvests are typically in June and July.

“The best ones are those that drop and land on a net.

“In these, you get the optimal balance of sweet and bitter notes.

“If they hit the ground, their taste will become more bitter,” said durian seller Ang Hock Leng, who operates a stall along Anson Road, George Town.

He said the Kong Zai label came from the plantation owner’s name.

Wang, which means king, was added for glamour, in the vein of the Musang King or the newer Tupai King.

“Taste wise, the Puppet King can give the more popular variants a run for their money.

“But, apart from serious local durian lovers, not many know about it yet,” Ang added.

The secret is now out, as the Puppet King was among the many varieties served to local media members during a durian party hosted by Batu Lanchang assemblyman Ong Ah Teong.

Cheers rang out when Ang and his staff carted out baskets of the thorny fruits and cracked them open with ease.

Many took the opportunity to feast on the normally pricey Black Thorn and Musang King, in between mouthfuls of other variants like Capri, Hor Lor and Khun Poh.

Ong said the durian party was a yearly affair, organised as a gesture of thanks to local pressmen, councillors and community leaders.

“Penang is well-known for durian and what better way to bring everyone together than over the finest durian the state has to offer.

“This stall offers quality durian and we can sample a wide variety,” said Ong, who personally loves the Black Thorn or any variety with a bitter flavour profile.

Having operated at the site since 1979, Ang has seen the fruit rise from a local treat to a global sensation.

“I started as a kid helping my father.

“Now, some of my customers are the children of people whom I used to serve.

“Back in the day, our clientele was almost all local but nowadays, we get a lot of tourists, particularly from Indonesia and China,” he added.

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