Cheers to spirit of familiar desserts


Eggssy’s intimate space in George Town.

BEYOND the smiles they bring to people’s faces, desserts and cocktails also tell stories of craftsmanship and passion.

The best ones stand out for memorable interplays of flavours, textures and ingredients, thanks to the ingenuity of those who made them.

With so much in common, it was inevitable that the worlds of sweets and spirits would collide as they do at Eggssy, a mini speakeasy at Irving Road in George Town, Penang.

A recent addition to the island’s bar scene, its specialises in luscious dessert cocktails that deliver complex, multi-layered sensations.

“Drinkers constantly crave new experiences.

“We looked at things that triggered pleasant emotions and desserts were an obvious one.

“But, knowing how local palates are averse to anything overly sweet, we didn’t want our drinks to be straight up liquefied, alcoholic versions of desserts either.

“Instead, we use spirits, liqueurs and infusions to create balanced flavours that evoke something familiar,” said mixologist and owner Lim Yin Wei, popularly known as Wei.

That is certainly true of his Pineapple Sugus.

Made with whisky, bitters, pineapple juice, charcoal powder, yoghurt and lemon juice, it initially mimics the flavours of the iconic square-shaped chewy candy.

But the acidity soon makes way for the full-bodied flavour of whipped cream.

As this is finished with dark chocolate and sour plum shavings, one could almost imagine biting into a decadent tiramisu or black forest cake.

“We wanted to play on nostalgia, as most Malaysians would have had Sugus as kids.

“Each sip triggers those hidden memories and allows you to rediscover what once brought you joy.

“The tastes will also evolve as the night goes on.

“That’s the magic of a good cocktail,” Wei continued, before whipping up a Summer Tea 3.0.

Wei creating the Summer Tea 3.0.Wei creating the Summer Tea 3.0.

Constituents like black tea, whisky, green apple and lemon juice made the libation zesty at first.

But, similar to the Pineapple Sugus, once the yuzu cream registered on the taste buds, it brought to mind a silky and citrusy pudding.

Without being overly saccharine, others like the Lemon Cheesecake (whisky, lemon juice and bitters) and Tau Fu Fah (whisky, cinnamon, water chestnut, elderflower, ginger and black sugar) will also appeal to those with a sweet tooth.

“Penang’s local desserts offer ample inspiration.

“By interpreting these into drinks, you experience the desserts in totally new ways and yet still find some familiarity.

“Above all, we want this place to be about appreciation.

“Don’t drink to get drunk but rather to explore a whole world of different flavours, aromas and sensations,” Wei emphasised.

Indeed, that is why he chose an intimate space to set up Eggssy.

Ebiko Martini with longan and roe.Ebiko Martini with longan and roe.

No bigger than the average living room, it is meant to encourage interactions between bartender and customer.

You watch your drinks get made, chit-chat and perhaps learn a thing, or two.

Being inside a heritage building, there is some old-world Penang charm as well.

Besides dessert cocktails, Wei also does excellent craft cocktails.

Highlights among his latest selection include the Ebiko Martini and Spiced Caviar.

The former blends mezcal with wine liqueur, orange bitters, salt and lemon juice, and is topped with prawn roe and longan.

The latter has gin, wine liqueur, dry vermouth, lime juice and fresh lychee, alongside a spoonful of lumpfish caviar for nibbling.

“Spirit-forward drinks go well with savoury accents.

“Whether it’s the floral nature of mezcal or botanicals in gin, they leave your palate refreshed,” he pointed out.

For those preferring classics, there are several with Penang twists such as a Manhattan with luo han guo (monk fruit), or a gin and tonic with local elements.

The Pineapple Sugus (right) shows how nuanced a dessert cocktail can be while the Spiced Caviar is spirit-forward and savoury.The Pineapple Sugus (right) shows how nuanced a dessert cocktail can be while the Spiced Caviar is spirit-forward and savoury.

The menu changes often but everything tends to be easy on the palate.

If you fancy something, Wei can come up with an off-menu creation.

There are also premium whiskies and tequilas by the shot for guests to test the waters and see if they like particular expressions before breaking the bank for a whole bottle.

A cigar room is currently in the works.

As they do not serve food, best to grab a bite before visiting.

Eggssy, No 111, Irving Road, George Town, Penang. (Tel: 011-1197 7977) Business hours: 6.30pm to 12.30am (Monday to Friday).

This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.

   

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