Ting pulling ‘mee suah’ to loosen the noodles.
A TOWERING swan statue perched in the river near the Sibu Rejang Esplanade, can be traced to local folklore.
According to legend, Sibu suffered a great famine and once it ended, a flock of swans was seen flying across the skies.
Sibu folk believed these swans were symbolic of a guardian spirit watching over the town.
Additionally, the Melanau word for “sago” pearls, pronounced “go” in Mandarin closely resembles the pronunciation for “swan.”
Incidentally, sago is a staple food among the people of Borneo.
It is said that this linguistic connection resulted in the white swan being identified as the symbol for Sibu.
In recognition of the bird’s significance, Sibu Municipal Council (SMC) erected the swan statue in Sungai Rajang, Malaysia’s longest river.
While locals are familiar with stories of the swan, albeit with various interpretations including one of the bird showing villagers how to extract edible starch from wild palms, these tales do pique travellers’ interest in Sibu.
Tang showing her grandchildren Ryder (left) and Reina Ting the process of drying ‘mee suah’ at the cottage industry premises on Jalan Oya.
Timeless tradition
Located in the central region of Sarawak, Sibu sits along the banks of Sungai Rajang.
To get the most of this majestic river, there is an awe-inspiring evening cruise with scenic views along the way, but the highlight has to be catching the sun taking a bow as it sets on the horizon.
Amid its old-world charm and natural beauty, Sibu is a treasure trove of culture and history, which makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking an authentic experience.
Life seems to move at a slower pace here, even in the town centre.
However, for people like mee suah maker Ting Cheng Sieng, 72, there is a strict schedule to abide by in the production of this local speciality.
“I have to knead and pull the mee suah in the morning, in time to hang it out to dry in the sun.
“If I miss the timing, the noodles won’t dry properly,” he said.
Often referred to as “longevity noodles” by the Chinese community, mee suah − made from wheat flour − is often consumed during celebratory occasions like birthdays and Chinese New Year.
Ting and his wife Tang Swee Nyuk, 61, are one of the last few people in this cottage industry who make mee suah from scratch at their premises in Jalan Oya in one of Sibu’s suburbs.
“Our day starts as early as 5am when we mix flour with alkaline water and coarse salt, before stretching the sheets on two wooden sticks.
“The sticks are used to pull the noodles until they form fine mee suah strands. The mee suah is then left to dry,” said Tang, adding that between 25kg and 50kg of noodles were made in a day.
Visitors to the business premises can try their hand at making mee suah, to understand the effort that goes into producing the noodles.
The picturesque Ku Tien Memorial Park in Sibu.
Heritage and history
The Sibu Visitor Information Centre is an ideal starting point for those keen to know more about the town.
It houses the Sibu Cultural Heritage Museum, which showcases the town’s history, her people and stories of early Chinese settlers who played a key role in developing the local economy.
The World Fuzhou Heritage Gallery and Lau King Howe Hospital Museum are several other prominent attractions offering a glimpse into Sibu’s past.
One notices a rock mural adjacent to the entrance of the World Fuzhou Heritage Gallery that depicts the journey of pioneers from Fujian province in China, who migrated and settled in Sibu in the early 20th century.
Sibu Central Market is a hive of activity and has plenty of local products.
The gallery has over 650 artefacts donated by Fuzhou families, including farming tools, traditional clothing, kitchen utensils and other historical items used in bygone eras – highlighting the community’s contributions to Sibu’s development.
The heritage gallery serves as a reminder of enduring cultural ties between Sibu and Fuzhou, preserving a legacy that remains vibrant to this day.
Equally captivating is the Lau King Howe Hospital Museum built to document the town’s history of medical services.
Named after philanthropist Lau King Howe whose generous donation led to the establishment of Sibu’s first modern hospital in the 1930s, the museum gives a fascinating insight into the evolution of healthcare in the region.
Lau King Howe Hospital Museum showcases the history of medical services in Sibu.
On exhibit are original medical equipment, patient records, and photographs documenting the hospital’s role in the community.
Another significant landmark is Masjid Al Qadim on Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg in Pekan Sibu.
Built in 1861 by Salam Minangkabau from Sumatra, Indonesia, it stands as the oldest mosque here.
Its architecture is a blend of traditional Malay, Sumatran and Islamic artistry.
Over at Jalan Bukit Lima is the Ku Tien Memorial Park with a picturesque garden, a pond of pretty water lilies and a gazebo that extends to the middle of the pond.
Uniquely local
Another exceptional experience when touring Sibu is the warm hospitality at Iban longhouses.
Dating back to the 18th century, the Bawang Assan Iban Longhouse is home to 42 families sharing this communal space.
The Ngajat dance, which is performed during Gawai (harvest festival) or to welcome important guests, is the community’s way of showing their hospitable nature.
The dance takes place around the Ranyai tree, which is tied to a pillar in the middle of the longhouse verandah.
Lydia (left) leading the Ngajat dance with her family and visitors around the Ranyai tree.
“The tree is decorated with various food and drink items,” said our host Lydia Kandau when we visited the longhouse community.
“During Gawai, house representatives dance around the tree, selecting items attached to it.
“The last person to choose an item has to cut the rope tying the Ranyai tree, using a machete. This marks the symbolic start of Gawai,” she elaborated.
When at the longhouse, guests can expect to savour traditional dishes such as stir-fried manicai or cangkuk manis (also known as sayur manis or pucuk manis) with fried eggs, dabai (Sarawak black olives) as well as tuak (rice wine).
Blowpipes known as sumpit, measuring 2.1m, are traditional hunting weapons which one can have a shot at.
But do not expect a moving target in sight, because all you are about to shoot are regular darts into a dart board.
As a first-time visitor to the town, I found the Sibu Central Market with its range of local harvest and fresh produce fascinating.
An interesting sight is that of live chickens for sale, wrapped in newspaper. This has been depicted in one of the market’s murals.
I learnt that this practice of wrapping chicken with newspapers was introduced by the local authority some 30 years back.
The market is also known for popular local produce such as aromatic Sarawak white and black peppers, Sarawak kek lapis (layered cake) in vibrant colours and flavours, as well as instant mee suah.
Local delicacies
Sibu is also a food lover’s paradise.
There is the kampua, a type of noodles that come either with or without black soy sauce, topped with barbecued meat slices, fried shallots, and spring onions.
Kampua is local dish often served with meat slices. It can be eaten with or without dark soy sauce.
One can also pair the noodles with piping hot beef soup that makes for an appetising meal.
Kompia is a traditional Fuzhou bread dotted generously with sesame seeds.
The chewy bread can be filled with either kaya or butter.
Stir-fried midin, I feel, is the top of the list for foodies on a gastronomic tour of local Sarawakian delights.
This green leafy fern grows in the wild and can only be found in Sarawak.
Midin is a popular wild fern found in Sarawak.
Another local delicacy is dabai which is eaten with sugar or dark soy sauce.
Dabai has a distinctive flavour and is an acquired taste for some.
What’s in store
Those planning to visit Sibu can mark their calendars for the annual Borneo Cultural Festival (BCF), with the 2025 edition scheduled for July next year.
The recently concluded festival is an interesting place to discover traditional foods from various clan associations, traditional dances and music as well as Sarawak arts and crafts.
One highlight was the keringkam – traditional hand embroidered shawls and veils made with gold or silver thick threads.
“The keringkam showcases intricate craftsmanship and is of cultural significance,” said Nor Azah Omar, a representative of Warisan Seni Keringkam Sibu.
A traditional dance performance at the Borneo Cultural Festival.
“This makes keringkam increasingly rare and valuable, but there are still those dedicated to preserving this cultural heritage to ensure this unique aspect of Sarawak does not fade away.”
From experiential retreat to relaxation, Sibu offers many facets for travellers seeking to acquaint themselves with the local way of life.
The town’s historical landmarks and vibrant food scene as well as its tranquil charm offer the perfect escape for those wanting a short and leisurely break.
This blend of adventure, culture and history makes Sibu a destination for each traveller to find out what resonates with their interests.
