Pachri is a vegetable dish that is usually prepared with certain fruits or vegetables, in this case, brinjals. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
BRINJAL pachri belongs to a broad family of vegetable relishes that bear the culinary influence of the Indian subcontinent.
Known variously as pajeri, paceri, pachadi or pacchadi, this dish is deeply rooted in Indian and South-East Asian kitchens.
In Northern India, it is referred to as chutney, derived from the Hindi word chatna, meaning “to eat with appetite”.
Though pachri is commonly served in small portions as a condiment due to its intense flavour, it packs a remarkable punch.
Whether enjoyed fresh or after maturing in the refrigerator for a few days, its flavour is unforgettable.
However, coconut-based pachris like this one are best eaten fresh, as they don’t keep well for long.
Pachri can be made from a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, ranging from mango and pineapple to cucumber and gourds.
In Malaysia, variations often include coconut milk, kerisik (toasted coconut), gula melaka (palm sugar) and dried shrimps.
For a vegan option, simply omit the dried shrimps.
This brinjal pachri recipe, adapted from Star Lifestyle columnist Kalsom Taib’s self-published book Recipes Are For Sharing, is a treasured one.
Kalsom said the recipe was courtesy of Khalijah Mahmud, or Kak Jah, who was related to her husband and was his only relative in Kuala Lumpur when he studied at Universiti Malaya.
“Kak Jah would often invite me to eat at her house and her pachri terung was literally to die for. Without asking, she gave me her recipe,” said Kalsom.
While the oil content in this recipe may seem excessive, don’t be intimidated – brinjals are notorious for absorbing oil, and along with the sugar in the gula melaka, it helps preserve the dish for a few days.
That said, nothing beats the experience of enjoying this relish fresh, spooned over a plate of hot, fluffy white rice.
This is a predominantly vegetable dish and the dried shrimps may be omitted if you wish to keep it strictly vegan.
Brinjal pachri
Ingredients
1 cup cooking oil
3 red chillies, sliced lengthwise
1kg brinjals, sliced lengthwise
18 bulbs shallots, peeled and sliced
10 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
10g ginger, peeled and sliced
3cm cinnamon
2 pods cardamom
3 buds cloves
5 tbsp curry powder
2 tbsp kerisik
2 tbsp dried shrimps, washed and pounded
½ cup water
½ cup gula melaka
2 tbsp sugar
3 tsp salt
1 tbsp tamarind pulp, rehydrated with ¼ cup hot water
½ cup coconut milk
Directions
Heat the oil in the pan and fry the chillies and brinjals, then set aside.
Using the same oil, sauté the shallots and garlic until fragrant, then add the ginger, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. Lower the heat and mix in the curry powder, allowing it to release its aroma. Add the kerisik and dried shrimps and fry until fragrant.
Fry chillies and brinjals in batches.
Add water, gula melaka, sugar and salt, followed by tamarind juice and coconut milk to simmer until gravy thickens.
Reduce the heat further and return the fried brinjals and chillies to simmer until completely coated in gravy.
Return fried brinjals and chillies to the pan to simmer until completely coated in gravy.
You can enjoy pachri hot or cold, but it tastes best when served over steaming hot white rice.
Store leftovers for up to two days in the refrigerator.
