Tourists from China dressed in charming Nyonya kebaya during their trip to Melaka. — Filepic
The importance of kebaya was raised in discussions surrounding its nomination for the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation’s (Unesco) Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (ICH) last year.
Melaka Arts and Culture Department (JKKN) director Ezlina Alias said the kebaya was a traditional garment characterised by its blouse design typically worn with brooches and paired with a sarung.
“The kebaya refers to a popular traditional outfit in Malaysia, alongside baju kurung, and has undergone a long evolution shaped by the cultural exchanges of various ethnicities over the past 600 years, particularly during the era of the Melaka Sultanate,” she told Bernama.
Ezlina said kebaya was also worn by the Baba Nyonya, Chetty and Portuguese communities.
Additionally, neighbouring countries such as Indonesia and Thailand have adopted the kebaya as part of their traditional outfits.
She said Malaysia had over 10 distinct types of kebaya, including Kebaya Perlis, Pahang, Johor-Riau and Kota Baru.
“The kebaya transcends cultures and religions, making it a truly universal outfit.
“Icons like Saloma and Noor Kumalasari popularised the kebaya in films they starred in.”
Unfortunately, the traditional outfit, which was once worn by all groups including nobility, has increasingly become relegated to cultural stage performances.
The craftsmanship and authenticity of the kebaya are fading with time.
Ezlina acknowledged that several factors, including the shift towards more casual Western attire, contributed to this decline.
She stressed the urgent need to ensure that the rich cultural heritage of the Nusantara region was preserved.
Cedric Tan Chai Cheng, an expert advisor on kebaya and well-known as Baba Cedric, acknowledged that drastic measures must be taken.
Tan, a sixth-generation Peranakan from Melaka, said efforts to preserve the authenticity of this unique heritage were timely and necessary.
Even more concerning was the fact that in Melaka itself, there were only two remaining Nyonya kebaya embroiderers, both in their 80s, he said.
“Even the Baba and Nyonya descendants themselves are becoming indifferent.
“As a result, the true essence of this attire, which is deeply rooted in proper wearing techniques – including the use of brooches, tying unsewn batik fabric and selecting colours appropriate to age and occasion – is being lost.”
According to Tan, Malaysia’s nomination for the Unesco list was made in collaboration with Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand.
“The effort to nominate the kebaya to Unesco’s ICH list began in 2022, involving five countries with Malaysia taking the lead.
“This illustrates that the kebaya is widely worn by women across the Nusantara region, showcasing its broad cultural scope,” he said.
“If the kebaya is accepted as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, it will allow us to promote this attire globally, not just within the Nusantara, and as a shared heritage rather than individual cultural artefacts.
“The kebaya comes in many styles, and more importantly it highlights the grace and refinement of Nusantara women.”
Tan said that as part of the nomination process, efforts included collecting and documenting various kebaya styles, drafting research papers and organising workshops.
Cross-cultural exchanges between countries were also conducted to gather information on the kebaya as an ancestral heritage of the Nusantara.
“This is a positive initiative as it broadens our perspective and allows us to learn about kebaya styles from other countries.
“Most importantly, it provides an opportunity for in-depth discussions on how we can preserve the legacy and heritage of the kebaya,” he said.
“We must ensure this legacy is passed down to the next generation.
“We don’t want other kebaya styles to face the same fate as the kebaya panjang or Peranakan kebaya, which has nearly vanished from everyday wear,” Tan warned.
