The beachside feast dilemma


Visitors frolicking along a stretch of the San Girolamo beach lined with apartment buildings. — ©2024 The New York Times Company

AT 1pm at the San Girolamo beach in Italy’s southern city of Bari, as the sun reached its summit and temperatures came close to 38°C, the smell of fried green peppers made its way through a thick maze of umbrellas and folding chairs.

On plastic tables, decks of playing cards and crossword puzzles were replaced by cotton tablecloths, and loud shouts summoned the children for lunch.

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