Between silence and struggle

Customers at the Tao cafe in Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. The first election for Kashmir’s regional legislature in a decade will restore a degree of self-rule five years after Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s government stripped Kashmir of its semiautonomous status and brought it more tightly under Indian control. — ©2024 The New York Times Company

THE Tao café in Srinagar, the capital of the disputed Kashmir region, is a lively spot. Under the shade of majestic trees, young, affluent Kashmiris enjoy Himalayan trout with fresh bread.

But when politics comes up, the energy dims, even during election season. Conversations touch on a growing sense of directionlessness, with uncertainty clouding the future.