Hidden gems in New Jersey

Jewelry that was once part of France’s Crown Jewels. When the French state scandalously sold off most of its crown jewels 137 years ago, Tiffany & Company bought a third of them. — ©2025 The New York Times Company

HIDDEN away in a nondescript building in Parsippany, New Jersey, lies a dazzling secret: four extraordinary pieces of France’s crown jewels.

Once symbols of French royalty, they are now owned by Tiffany & Co, whose storied acquisition links them to a remarkable chapter in history.

The jewels, purchased during a dramatic public auction by the French state 137 years ago, reflect an extraordinary tale of politics, culture and luxury.

Today, Tiffany – now part of the luxury conglomerate LVMH – safeguards these treasures far from public view.

Recently, however, in a rare gesture, the company offered a private viewing of the jewels at its Fifth Avenue store in Manhattan.

A republic’s radical move

In 1887, the French government’s decision to auction most of the crown jewels marked a departure from the nation’s deep commitment to preserving its cultural heritage, or patrimoine.

Following the fall of Napoleon III and the rise of the Third Republic, an anti-monarchical fervour swept through France.

Radicals branded the jewels “stones waiting for the monarchy’s restoration”.

To sever ties with royal symbols, the government ordered their sale, with proceeds converted into government bonds.

The auction was unprecedented. Jewels were dismantled, settings destroyed, and more than 77,000 stones were sold in lots over 11 days in May 1887.

Buyers from across the world, including jewellers, diamond merchants and collectors, descended on Paris. Among them was Charles Lewis Tiffany, founder of Tiffany & Co, who emerged as the auction’s largest buyer, acquiring 24 of the 69 lots.

From Paris to America

“Tiffany takes the cake!” declared The New York Herald after the auction’s first day.

Among the pieces he purchased was a four-row diamond necklace, which was promptly sold to Kate Pulitzer, wife of publishing magnate Joseph Pulitzer.

Within months, Tiffany had sold all the jewels it acquired.

The proceeds, equivalent to over US$30mil today, fell short of expectations and did not reflect the historical or monetary value of the collection.

Over time, however, the jewels’ worth skyrocketed. When a 19-carat pink diamond from the collection resurfaced at a Christie’s auction in 2017, it sold for more than US$14mil.

Hunt to reclaim history

For decades, Tiffany has pursued a mission to reacquire pieces of the French crown jewels it had once sold. Its current collection includes four remarkable items once owned by Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III.

One highlight is a brooch crafted in 1855 by Bapst Frères, the court jeweller. Set with 125 diamonds in gold and silver, the brooch features cascading leaves and was originally part of a bodice decoration displayed at the 1855 Universal Exposition in Paris.

Tiffany initially sold the brooch to American financier JP Morgan, who gifted it to an associate’s wife.

Complementing the brooch are a pair of striking diamond clip earrings, also shaped like leaves, that once formed part of a necklace or bracelet.

Another standout is a brooch centred around a large Colombian emerald, surrounded by pendants of natural pearls and 26 rose-cut diamonds. Originally part of an ornate belt commissioned by Eugénie, the piece was known for its beauty — and its uncomfortable weight.

The final item is a 65-carat diamond necklace, fashioned from six strands of diamonds removed from an elaborate comb.

After the 1887 auction, it passed through several hands before Tiffany reacquired it in 2015 for US$1.5mil.

Reclamation efforts

Meanwhile, the Louvre Museum has been working to reclaim pieces from the crown jewels collection.

Anne Dion-Tenenbaum, the museum’s chief jewels curator, emphasised the importance of acquiring items in their original settings.

“We are very careful to buy jewellery that has not been reset and that is in the same condition as at the time of sale,” she said.

While some pieces have been returned to France, Tiffany’s collection remains a unique part of its heritage.

Victoria Reynolds, Tiffany’s chief gemologist, described the acquisition as audacious.

“An American jeweller goes and buys a third of the French crown jewels,” she said, marvelling at the historical irony.

A dream of reunion

The possibility of reuniting Tiffany’s jewels with the Louvre’s collection remains tantalising. For more than 25 years, LVMH has been a major donor to the museum, contributing €15mil in 2023 to help purchase an 18th-century painting.

Could the French crown jewels held by Tiffany one day be displayed in the Louvre’s Apollo Gallery?

“Everything begins with a dream,” said Jean-Paul Claverie, an adviser to LVMH chair Bernard Arnault.

Anne Dion-Tenenbaum allowed herself to imagine such a scenario. “Perhaps one day,” she mused.

Until then, these treasures of French history remain securely hidden, their journey from Paris to New Jersey a testament to the enduring allure of royalty and the ever-evolving world of luxury. — ©2025 The New York Times Company