Racial harmony, the Sarawak ‘mee kolok’ way


The special mee kolok served with sweet red sauce and wantan at Sainah Cafe. — Bernama

KUCHING: At least three times a week, factory employee Julia Unsing makes her way to her favourite eatery here as soon as she finishes her night shift at 8am.

She would order mee kolok, Sarawak’s signature breakfast dish.

This has been the Iban’s routine since she started working at a nearby factory in 2018.

Julia, a Christian, is usually accompanied by her colleagues from other religious and ethnic backgrounds who also relish mee kolok.

During peak hours when the restaurant is packed with customers, she and her friends would share a table with others regardless of their faith.

Such a sight – where people of various races and religions sit at the same table to eat – is commonplace in restaurants here and the rest of the state as well, a fact Sarawak is proud of and wishes to maintain.

Julia, 36, who spoke to Bernama, said she began patronising Sainah Cafe when its owners were running their food business in a stall at the Stutong community market prior to opening their own restaurant in 2021.

Whipping up delicious food: Sainah and Mohammad Ariffin Liew at their cafe in Kuching. — BernamaWhipping up delicious food: Sainah and Mohammad Ariffin Liew at their cafe in Kuching. — Bernama

Owned by Sainah Mahdi, 41, and her husband Mohammad Ariffin Liew Abdullah, 47, the cafe specialises in mee kolok, a dry noodle dish.

Previously, most restaurants in Sarawak served only the non-halal version but the couple tweaked its recipe and ingredients to turn it into a halal dish that can be enjoyed by all communities.

Sainah told Bernama that when she and her husband, who is Chinese, were courting in 2006, he told her mee kolok was his favourite food but he would not eat it in front of her as it was non-halal.

“That was when I got the idea of creating a halal version of this dish so that we could enjoy it together,” chipped in Mohammad Ariffin Liew.

In 2017, some nine years after he converted to Islam and married Sainah, the couple opened a small stall, serving only mee kolok and Sarawak laksa.

Their customers gave them the seal of approval and soon they were selling about 200 bowls a day.

“It took me two years to modify the original recipe of mee kolok ... I wanted to make sure the halal version was similar (in terms of taste and flavour) to the original dish. But my recipe requires the use of more ingredients than the original one,” said Mohammad Ariffin Liew.

He serves his mee kolok in three types of sauces – one is the normal sauce while the other two are sweet (red in colour) and salty (black soy sauce) – topped with slices of marinated barbecued chicken.

(Non-halal mee kolok comes with slices of roast or barbecued pork or char siu.)

“Other restaurants here rarely prepare halal mee kolok the way we do.

“We also sprinkle chopped mushroom on top of the dish, which is something other eateries that serve halal mee kolok don’t do,” he said, adding their Malay customers like the mee kolok with the sweet sauce while the Chinese prefer the normal sauce.

Sainah Cafe’s mee kolok is priced at RM7 a bowl while a bigger bowl with wantan costs RM9.

When the couple, who have two children aged 10 and 14, moved to their current premises in 2021, they also diversified their menu by adding other dishes such as mee kampua, seafood fried rice, chicken fried rice and koay teow, also prepared by Mohammad Ariffin Liew.

Mathius Hanson, 20, a college student from Serian, said he and his college mates would patronise the restaurant three or four times a week.

“I also like the restaurant’s environment,” said Mathius, whose favourite dish is mee kampua with sweet sauce.

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mee kolok , Sarawak , breakfast , dish

   

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