Dissen presenting a copy of his cook book to Ngui.
Sabah’s vast natural resources make it an ideal place for the farm-to-dining concept to thrive, says US chef.
FARM to table is a concept of sustainability that many know but not everyone fully adopts in their everyday operations.
For chef and American culinary diplomat William Dissen, this approach is the pinnacle of sustainable farming and business practices.
During a recent visit to Sabah, Dissen met with local players involved in farming and the food and beverage industry.
Reflecting on his childhood, he shared how growing up in the mountainous regions of the United States wasn’t all fun and games. He helped his grandparents with farm chores, which he initially hated due to the heat, dirt, and exhaustion.
However, the early experience instilled in him a sense of responsibility and a deep connection to farming.
“So, one day I thought, how can I make a career out of what I am familiar with? How do I tell my story better and do it sustainably?” he said.
Dissen’s journey led him to study, research, and collaborate closely with local chefs, farmers, and food producers.
Initially, farm-to-table dining was uncommon, and securing a consistent supply of quality ingredients was challenging. Yet, with persistence and years of effort, Dissen succeeded.
His achievements include titles such as Seafood Watch Ambassador to the Monterey Bay Aquarium in California and Official Ambassador for Le Creuset and Mountain Valley Spring Water.
Dissen (fifth from right, back row) taking a group picture with local cooks, restaurateurs, farmers and journalists.
Named Fortune Magazine’s “Green Chef of the Year” two years in a row, Dissen’s dedication to sustainable food and dining, coupled with his passion for foraging and fly fishing, often takes him from the kitchen into the mountain streams and peaks of southeastern United States and beyond.
During his sharing session, Dissen emphasised that Sabah’s vast natural resources make it an ideal place for the farm-to-dining concept to thrive.
He encouraged farmers and entrepreneurs to conduct proper research and engage in trial and error to perfect their dishes or creations.
“Chefs are storytellers not only of food but of the ingredients from where they are sourced,” he said, adding that persistence, hard work, and consistency are essential for success.
Dissen stressed the importance of collaboration between farmers, chefs, hotels, restaurants, and other stakeholders to expand the farm-to-table movement. The marketability of such food grows only with collective support.
Local chefs and business owners highlighted the challenges they face, particularly the consistency of quality ingredients.
Linn Ngui, owner of Limau and Linen, shared that the initial phase of her farm-to-dining business was tough.
Securing ingredients and making people understand the higher costs of locally sourced food were significant hurdles.
“When speaking of quality, there is always a price to pay,” she said.
However, she believes the investment is worthwhile for farmers, restaurant owners, and customers willing to explore and experience authenticity.
Chef Jimmy Boon noted that if farmers could ensure a stable supply of quality ingredients, there is significant potential for growth in Sabah’s food industry.
Achieving desired results requires hard work and sacrifice from all stakeholders, he said.
