Labour of love: Leong (right) and Jun Ming preparing traditional mooncakes for the upcoming Mid-Autumn Festival in George Town.— LIM BENG TATT/The Star
Mooncake master faces pressing succession dilemma as son eyes other pursuits
GEORGE TOWN: For over three decades, Leong How Keng has been lovingly crafting traditional mooncakes by hand.
But soon, the family’s culinary legacy may face its biggest test with succession under question.
Nestled in a modest corner of low-cost flats off Cintra Street here, the family-run business has earned a special place in the hearts of locals, especially during the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Leong, 68, remains devoted to the time-honoured techniques passed down from his father, who hailed from the mountainous town of Changshan county in China’s Zhejiang province.
The meticulous process starts with hand-kneading the dough and preparing the filling from scratch – a ritual that has been carefully maintained since his father’s days.
The range of mooncake flavours includes mixed nuts, pandan lotus paste, plain lotus paste, red bean paste and even durian, each a testament to the enduring appeal of Leong’s artisanal creations.
“It’s more than just a recipe; it’s a family legacy. I learnt the craft from my father, who passed away in 1993. He started it some 50 years ago,” Leong said.
But now, he faces uncertainty about the future of his business.
His 22-year-old son, Jun Ming, who has been working alongside him, stands at a crossroads.
“I grew up watching my father make mooncakes and other delicacies such as coconut tarts and pepper biscuits, and I’ve learnt the skills from him.
“At the same time, I’m also thinking about pursuing a career in IT and enrolling in a course,” the youngster said.
Jun Ming expressed his conflict between his deep respect for the family trade and the world of technology, which beckons with new opportunities.
“IT excites me. It’s a growing field and I see potential there.
“Yet, the thought of letting go of my heritage weighs heavily on my mind,” he admitted.
For his father, the thought of selling the business in the next few years is a looming reality.
“I’m not getting any younger. If my son does not take over, I might have to sell the business. It’s not just about making a profit; it’s about preserving our tradition.”
The next three years will be crucial for the Leong family.
For now, the mooncake shop continues to serve its loyal customers, who flock to buy the delicacies that have been handcrafted with patience and passion for generations.
The Mid-Autumn Festival, also called the Mooncake or Lantern Festival, is celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth month in the lunar calendar. This year, the celebration falls on Sept 17.
