The warrior monument in Kanowit built to honour the border scouts killed by communists.
KANOWIT, a small town tucked along the Rajang River, is one of Sarawak’s lesser-known destinations.
Located at the confluence of the Kanowit and Rajang Rivers, the town recorded a population of just 28,985 in the 2010 census.
Like many riverine towns, Kanowit slows down early – most shops close at around 3pm, and the nightlife is limited to a few food stalls at the newly completed riverfront.
The heart of the town consists of three streets lined with 1930s Chinese shophouses, a relic of Kanowit’s multicultural past. Although newer shophouses have emerged, the old town remains a hub for business and social gatherings.
Old Chinese shophouses in the heart of Kanowit town.
Kanowit’s name has an interesting origin.
According to local lore, when Sarawak’s first White Rajah James Brooke passed through, he told the locals he “cannot wait,” which they misheard as “Kanowet,” leading to the town’s name.
The late Richard Fidler, an American anthropologist, conducted fieldwork here from 1970 to 1971, publishing his study “Kanowit: An Overseas Chinese Community in Borneo”.
According to the foreword of the book, Fidler tried to show American college students what it was like to live in a town like Kanowit.
After his death in 2009, Fidler’s ashes were scattered in the Rajang River, fulfilling his final wishes.
River transport remains vital for small communities near Kanowit which are not yet connected by roads.
Among Kanowit’s notable attractions is a warrior monument built in 2016 to honour fallen border scouts who were killed by communists.
These brave individuals included Emba Garing, Numbu Kele, Lat Gangga, Pantau Baro, Kanchin Ligan, Gelau Sumor, Emba Garing, Senang Bajai, Skudan Dampak, Jantom Jalong, Jantom Narok, Brayin Balit and Luyoh Jaul, who died serving their country.
Others were First Malaysia Rangers who died in Kanowit and Song, namely, Lenggu China, Umok Ngumbang, Fabian Engkayau Tindin, Mathew Medan and Henry Ubong and the sole Chinese police corporal of the Kanowit Special Branch, Kong Siew Long, who was killed by the communists while on duty in Lukut in 1971.
Other places of interest include the Kanowit Handicraft Centre, the new esplanade, nearby longhouses, Fort Emma (built in 1851 by James Brooke) and a local Chinese temple.
A fish sculpture in front of SJK (C) Yee Ting in Kanowit.
Kanowit resident Ian Lang Kuntai, who has lived here for 31 years, finds the town peaceful and well-equipped. Despite its small size, it boasts essential services like a hospital, schools and up-to-date banking systems supported by strong Internet connectivity.
Over the years, Ian has witnessed significant improvements, particularly in infrastructure. The town is now connected by road to Sibu, Song and Kapit, making boat travel less common.
Durian and dabai, also known as the Sarawak black olive, are Kanowit’s signature seasonal fruits, according to Ian.
George Chen, another longtime resident, speaks fondly of the town’s harmony.
“We all live in peace and harmony. There is no social or racial issue.
“In recent years, many Iban families have started sending their children to Chinese schools, recognising the value of learning the language,” he said.
Locals selling jungle produce and fish at Kanowit’s new waterfront.
Born and bred in Kanowit, Chen recalled that riverine transportation using express boats used to be the main mode of communication prior to the completion of the Sibu-Kanowit-Song-Kapit road.
Then, people used boats to go to Song, Kapit and Ngemah along the Rajang River. But not anymore.
“Express boat companies have closed shop as people can now travel with ease with the completion of the road.
“The only drawback with this trunk road is that people travelling from Song and Kapit more often than not bypass Kanowit and go straight to Sibu,” he said.
The historic Fort Emma is one of Kanowit's places of interest.
Only small boats like longboats are still in use to travel to Iban villages.
However, Chen hoped for new industries to be developed in Kanowit, as many young people are leaving in search of better job opportunities.
The longhouses are now populated mainly by the elderly and children.
Although rubber farming has declined, pepper cultivation and oil palm plantations continue to contribute to the town’s economy.
