Across China: Shu brocade weaves dreams at Chengdu Universiade


CHENGDU, July 23 (Xinhua) -- In a matter of days, the art of the over 2,000-year-old Shu brocade will grace the chests of young athletes at the 31st International University Sports Federation (FISU) Summer World University Games in the city of Chengdu, southwest China's Sichuan Province.

The medals of the Games, slated for July 28 to August 8, are attached to a ribbon applying the craftsmanship and materials of the Shu brocade, a revered national intangible cultural heritage of China.

"The Shu brocade holds a significant position as one of the world's earliest brocade fabrics," said Lai Fei, associate researcher at the Sichuan provincial museum. "In China, the Shu brocade, together with the Song brocade, Yun brocade, and Zhuang brocade, are listed as the four most famous brocades."

The Shu brocade ribbon, measuring 2.5 centimeters in width and 105 centimeters in length, boasts an array of patterns, including the "Sun and Immortal Birds," which represents themes of light, hope, and dreams. It also showcases auspicious clouds and Chengdu city flower hibiscus, adding further cultural significance to its design.

The distinctive beauty of Shu brocade lies in its plain, twill, and satin weaves, which give the ribbon a clear and well-defined appearance. When exposed to natural light, the ribbon reflects various colors, and the auspicious cloud pattern also takes on a lifelike quality that beautifully changes with the play of light.

Professor Ma Liwa of Chengdu University, the designer of the ribbon, describes the design process as "like riding a roller coaster," as it required numerous revisions and reorganizations, with more than 40 drafts crafted to achieve the final result.

"The use of the ancient Shu brocade weaving process for the sash presented various challenges," Ma said. "The ribbon's construction involves five yarns intricately woven by hand on a traditional loom."

The Chengdu ancient Shu brocade research institute was entrusted with the task of weaving the medal ribbons. Its director Hu Guangjun's exceptional expertise in the art of Sichuan brocade weaving, particularly in mastering all four major processes and over 70 procedures, sets him apart as a true master of this craft.

Weaving brocade is a highly intricate and labor-intensive craft that demands exceptional skill and patience. According to the historical records from the Han Dynasty (202 BC-220 AD), "it takes 60 days to weave around 33 meters of brocade." Even the experienced weavers at that time could only weave about 13 centimeters of brocade in a day.

"There are more than 10,000 silk threads on the loom of Shu brocade, and the arrangement and combination of silk threads to form different patterns is like programming," Hu said.

During the ribbon weaving period, the two looms of Hu's institute ran for 16 hours each day. In five months, 48 kilograms of silk was "transformed" into these exquisite medal ribbons.

"The ribbon, which serves as a meaningful connection between the athletes and their hard-earned medals, not only embodies the hospitality and good wishes of Chengdu as the host city but also reflects the intricacies of Chinese aesthetics," Hu said.

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