IT was in 1953 when luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Blancpain made horological history, unveiling the Fifty Fathoms – a legendary diver's watch that not only shaped the brand's destiny but also revolutionised the underwater timekeeping landscape.
The watch was the brainchild of Jean-Jacques Fiechter – Blancpain’s then chief executive officer who was an avid diver.
Fiechter was developing it during a period when the newly established Combat Diving Corps of the French navy required a specialised diving instrument.
This timepiece featured an automatic winding movement, anti-magnetic shielding, large white-on-black luminous markings, and a lockable rotating bezel – all of which became the blueprint for modern dive watches.
The Fifty Fathoms’ robustness, water resistance and reliability made it the preferred choice for underwater explorers and elite combat divers across the globe, including the US Navy SEALs.
Between the 1980s to the late 1990s, the Fifty Fathoms was taken out of mainstream production and used largely by military clients.
It was a decade later that this horological icon surfaced when Marc A. Hayek, a fellow dive enthusiast, assumed the role of Blancpain's president and chief executive officer.
Under his leadership, the brand unveiled its Fifty Fathoms 50th Anniversary Edition in 2003.This commemorative model showcased a black dial adorned with instantly recognisable oversized numerals and markings, a case with water resistance of up to 300m, and a domed, scratchproof sapphire insert – a modern replacement for the epoxy bezel inlay of the 1950s.
Clocking the depths
This year, Blancpain celebrates the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms with three latest additions to the collection - Act 1, Act 2 and Act 3, featuring extraordinary technical achievements.
It is also on this platinum jubilee celebration that Blancpain wants to pay tribute to the pioneers who made scuba diving possible, emphasising the watchmaker’s ongoing inspiration from underwater exploration in using innovative materials and new technical solutions.
Act 1, unveiled in January, pays homage to the 50th anniversary model with an exclusive size of 42mm polished steel case, crowned by the iconic unidirectional bezel with a domed sapphire inlay, deviating from the usual 45mm standard models – as well as the 40mm used for limited editions.
The black dial, adorned with a sunburst motif, showcases vintage-look luminescent hands and block-type hour markers while the self-winding Calibre 1315 – known for its robustness since 2007, operates on a three-barrel architecture, offering a five-day power reserve.
Act 1 consists of three series with 70 pieces each, that were designed for three different regions – EMEA, Asia-Pacific, and the Americas, with Roman numerals for dials.
A standout feature of Act 1 is its distinctive black NATO strap, crafted from recycled fishing nets.
Diving deep into innovation
Inaugurating the new line dedicated to technical diving is the Fifty Fathoms Act 2 – Tech Gombessa, a watch that draws on the 1953 Fifty Fathoms heritage.
This stunning timepiece was crafted in collaboration with Laurent Ballesta, a French diver, photographer, underwater biologist and founder of the Gombessa project – a study of some of the rarest and most elusive marine creatures using electronically controlled closed-circuit mixed gas rebreathers to venture into extreme depths.
Engineered for dives lasting up to three hours, the Tech Gombessa features a unique three-hour scale bezel with a dedicated hand, a world-first innovation. The 13P8 self-winding movement, with a patent filed, upholds the Fifty Fathoms' reliability for 70 years.
It features a black ceramic bezel inlay, an absolute black dial for optimal readability in low light, luminescent block-shaped appliques, a 47mm grade 23 titanium case with central lugs that are integrated from inside the case middle, and a helium valve for saturation diving.
The anthracite-coloured oscillating weight showcases the movement, and the black rubber strap includes internal titanium reinforcement and an extension for wearing over a tech-diving suit.
Building resilience through time
Act 3, limited to only 555 pieces, is a nod to the military specification (MIL-SPEC) model, which played a crucial role in the history of diving watches.
The key feature is the moisture indicator, a safety innovation, further emphasising the watch's commitment to underwater missions.
The Act 3's unique 9K Bronze Gold alloy, enriched with gold and other elements, not only offers aesthetic appeal but also durability against skin contact, preventing the verdigris oxidation seen in traditional bronze.
The silicon balance-spring ensures resistance to magnetism, while the 100-hour power reserve and 1000-gauss version of the movement mark advancements in horological technology.
The watch’s sapphire crystal caseback reveals a meticulously crafted interior, with vintage-inspired details, mirroring historical aesthetics.
An ode to the ocean
For Blancpain, the Fifty Fathoms is more than just a timepiece; this indispensable diver's watch has served as the catalyst for Blancpain's commitment to raising awareness on ocean preservation.
Over the years, Blancpain has been actively engaged in supporting major scientific expeditions, including the Pristine Seas Expeditions (May 2011-May 2016) and Laurent Ballesta's Gombessa Expeditions.
This year marks the 10th anniversary of the Gombessa Expeditions, and through the decade, the brand has steadfastly underwritten all six major Gombessa expeditions.
Complementing these efforts, Blancpain publishes the Edition Fifty Fathoms, a dedicated publication featuring high-quality photographs that showcase the underwater world, designed to enrich public understanding and concern for the ocean.
Since 2012, Blancpain has also played a pivotal role as a Founding Supporter of the World Ocean Summit, fostering dialogue among global leaders with the aim of bringing fresh perspectives to the forefront of the ocean conservation agenda.
Blancpain's multifaceted approach underscores its dedication to both horological excellence and the global imperative of preserving and understanding our oceans.
To find out more, visit blancpain.com or head over to Blancpain’s KLCC boutique.