Pratishtha, is a Sanskrit word with various meanings, depending on the context. Since it was the theme picked for the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) 2024 that was held at the Sultan Abu Bakar Museum early August in Pekan, Pahang, the meaning – dignity and honour – fits the occasion.
It also fits the location because Pekan is the royal town of Pahang while the museum was formerly a palace, Istana Kota Beram, where the late Sultan Abu Bakar ruled. He was the current Sultan Pahang Al-Sultan Abdullah Ri’ayatuddin Al-Mustafa Billah Shah’s grandfather.
Colourful costumes and intricate headgears donned by models parading the collections of Indonesian designer Sugeng Waskito during the Islamic Fashion Festival 2024. — Photos: Perbadanan Muzium Negeri Pahang
With these elements combined, it was only appropriate for IFF to be held at a historical and prominent location. The lawn of the museum was turned into a runway with a transparent platform raised from inside a big pond.
Sound from the water features was soothing, giving a sense of calmness for the audience while waiting for the arrival of Tengku Ampuan Pahang Tunku Azizah Aminah Maimunah Iskandariah Sultan Iskandar Al-Haj.
Among the guests present were Raja Puan Muda Perlis Tuanku Dr Hajjah Lailatul Shahreen Akashah Khalil, Tengku Mahkota Pahang Tengku Hassanal Ibrahim Alam Shah Ibni Al-Sultan Abdullah Ri’ayatuddin Al-Mustafa Billah Shah, Pahang State Museum Corporation chairman Datuk Mohamad Nizar Datuk Seri Mohamad Najib, royal family members and other dignitaries.
Collections on display comprised costume designs that exuded prestige and dignity, highlighting aspects of traditional Malay attires that paid homage to the classic finesse of court attires. Many of these styles had withstood the test of time.
A parade of costumes, flowing with vibrant, bold colours designed by Kelantan-born designer Ezuwan Ismail.
The collections presented a combination of traditional Malay attires that had been given a modern touch, including baju Riau Pahang, Cekak Musang and long kebaya.
The costumes were by Datuk Radzuan Radziwill and Ezuwan Ismail (Malaysia) and Jeny Tjahyawati, Torang Sitorus and Sugeng Waskito (Indonesia).
RVJ Diamonds and Gems provided the jewellery that helped accentuate the timeless beauty of the clothes, evoking the glamour of the past which is still relevant in today’s modern world.
The night continued to be enchanting with models parading the traditional attires with lovely, intricate motifs and beautifully designed headscarves. They were accompanied by the melodious sound of the Pahang gamelan.As the day the IFF was held also fell on the birthday of Tunku Azizah, towards the end of the show, Her Royal Highness was presented with pulut kuning, surrounded by her children and family members.
IFF was established in 2006 by its chairman Tengku Sri Kelana D’Raja Datuk Seri Raja Rezza Shah Raja Aman Shah, an idea born following the events of 9/11 and led to an effort to tackle misconceptions about Islam which was perceived as something terrifying.
Indonesian designer Torang Sitorus (right) receiving an appreciation token from Datin Nor Sharmila Shaheen, wife to Pahang Museum Corporation chairman Datuk Mohamad Nizar Datuk Seri Mohamad Najib. On her right, Islamic Fashion Festival founder and chairman Tengku Sri Kelana D’Raja Datuk Seri Raja Rezza Shah Raja Aman Shah.
It is a platform that uses fashion as a way to reshape the narrative of Islamic culture. It is presented based on the principles of modesty in Islam but designers are encouraged to explore their interpretation of the principles of modesty with a variety of styles and creativity.
During an interview held before the event, Raja Rezza said IFF, as a fashion show, was a powerful visual tool that could help deal with the misconceptions about Islam and that the religion was not practised in one rigid way.
“There are different ways Muslim women in other countries cover their heads and bodies. There is no one look in Islam,” he said.
He also said response had been good, judging from the positive feedback he had gotten over the years in organising the event, locally and abroad, including from non-Muslim guests.
“It is my small contribution in representing Islam, transpired after the events of Sept 11. There have been a lot of stereotypes about Islam. As such, I use fashion as a way to restyle the narrative of Islamic culture,” he said.
Organising a fashion show would be a piece of cake for Raja Rezza as he was a model, an artist and a singer and was very popular during the 80s and 90s.
He is also the Muslim Apparel Entrepreneur and Designers Association (AMAED) president and an adjunct professor at Universiti Malaysia Kelantan (UMK).
On Pekan and the museum chosen as the IFF location, Pahang State Museum Corporation general manager Datuk Ahmad Farid Abd Jalal said the town itself is a living museum, very significant in celebrating and elevating the Malay and Islam identity.
Indonesian designer Jeny Tjahyawati (in the middle) taking the walk after presenting her line of collections at the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) 2024 held at the Sultan Abu Bakar Museum, Pekan, Pahang.
“It is exciting to see this being portrayed in a different but modern platform like IFF, its interpretation of Malay princess Tun Teja’s classic beauty essence weaved into the sophistication of today’s present world,” he added.
“Living Heritage” was the theme that renowned fashion creator Radzuan emphasised in his designs, celebrating the continuous and evolving legacy of Islamic culture through fashion, blending traditional heritage with modern-day influences.
Radzuan used rich, earthy tones and luxurious materials like soft organza, satin and brocade that gave out the flowing, modest silhouettes, providing grace and comfort.
As for Ezuwan, his collection took a richer and more intricate style which was inspired by Mysore Palace, a historical and royal residence in Karnataka, India. His designs infused vibrant colours such as green, red, yellow and blue while the fabric used were organza silk, taffeta silk, twill and crepe silk.
His trademark was evident with each design injected with handmade bead embroidery. Each cut and oversized silhouette and abaya were matched with an oversized cardigan to suit the Islamic woman style.
Indonesian Jeny is a well-known celebrity and award-winning designer in the fashion industry focusing mainly on Muslim fashion. She picked the theme, “Journey”, aiming to showcase the harmony between culture and modernity.
It referred to a creative and innovative passage in designing modest clothing with wastra (textile), a songket cloth from Palembang, South Sumatra. The textile required highly skilled individuals in making the traditional motifs and weaving.
Torang is one of the pioneers in Indonesia actively involved in advocating ulos, a traditional woven cloth, as cultural heritage in North Sumatra and abroad while Sugeng is a fashion designer and a pioneer of contemporary abstract batik motifs with the ready-to-wear and glamorous concept.
