Whether you prefer vibrant and eye-catching designs or subtle and minimalist looks, customisation options allow you to express yourself through your keyboard. — Image by studiogstock on Freepik
From personalised colour schemes to nostalgic retro layouts, the world of custom mechanical keyboards offers a design for every enthusiast.
One compelling reason to consider building a custom keyboard is the flexibility to personalise the colour scheme and aesthetics to match your style and personality.
Whether you prefer vibrant and eye-catching designs or subtle and minimalist looks, customisation options allow you to express yourself through your keyboard.
Beyond aesthetics, custom keyboards also offer practical benefits, such as the ability to select specific switches suited to your typing style, ensuring optimal comfort and performance.
Looking for a more compact keyboard? You could opt for a tenkeyless (TKL) design, which removes the numeric keypad for a sleeker look.
Nothing compares to the experience – and the sense of achievement – of constructing a keyboard from scratch using a DIY kit. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Or, you could go even smaller with a 60% keyboard design, eliminating not only the numeric keypad but also the function row, navigation cluster (the six keys that include Insert, Home Page Up, and Page Down), and arrow keys, saving valuable desk space by sacrificing less commonly used keys.
If you are a fan of vintage aesthetics, you can opt for keyboards inspired by classics like the venerable Cherry G80-1800. Originally released in 1989, it introduced to the world the 1800 layout, which has a compact yet functional design with a full-sized alphanumeric section, navigation cluster and function row.
Alternatively, you could opt for a more striking design with the Alice and its unique curved layout that splits it into two halves, intended to provide a more comfortable typing experience. Introduced and popularised by Malaysian designer Yuktsi, the Alice has inspired a whole host of spin-offs.
Before you build your own custom model, keep in mind that even the most subtle modification or change in part choice can go a long way towards making the keyboard truly yours.
Picking the parts
For prospective keyboard builders, it all starts with deciding what kind of keyboard to construct, a tougher task than it may initially appear due to the sheer variety available.
Exploring the options may seem daunting, but delving into the customisation process will help you gain a deep understanding of a keyboard’s components and functionality.
Typically, DIY-centric keyboards come in one of three packages: fully built with switches and keycaps, barebones without switches and keycaps, or kits that require assembly from scratch.
The mounting mechanism of a keyboard can greatly alter the typing feel, pictured is a gasket mount. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Those just starting out can opt for either a fully built or barebones keyboard, which can be modified with various foams, lubricants, stabilisers, plates, and, of course, the switches that alter the sound and overall typing experience.
For instance, switching from a stiff aluminium plate, where switches are mounted, to polycarbonate would make the keyboard flex when typed on, resulting in what is described as a “softer” typing experience.
Pricing for fully built or barebones keyboards tends to be lower than kits requiring user assembly, ranging from under RM100 to RM500 or so.
On the other hand, the pricing for fully DIY kits typically begins at hundreds of ringgit and can reach thousands, particularly for exclusive designs featuring premium elements such as a brass weight, aluminium case, and intricate detailing.
Keyboard enthusiasts tend to pay close attention to the keyboard mounting mechanism, as it greatly influences the typing feel, which can vary widely according to personal preference.
For instance, keyboards with a sandwich mount secured by screws typically offer a firmer typing experience, while those with a gasket mount tend to offer more bouncy keystrokes.
And then it’s time to pick switches.
Switches are split into three categories: linear, tactile, and clicky. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Switches are split into three categories: linear (switches that go straight down without feedback when actuated), tactile (with a bump partway through key presses that let users know it’s been actuated), and clicky (similar to tactile but with an additional mechanism in the switch that produces a click when actuated).
Switches are fairly affordable at less than RM0.80 per switch, though they can shoot up to beyond RM5 for more premium options made of exotic materials.
Check whether the selected switch adheres to a standard design or utilises a long pole stem, a feature frequently employed to produce a deeper or bassier sound profile. This is important because it can cause keycaps to pop out if they’re not paired with long pole stabilisers.
Stabilisers are also required for longer keys such as the enter, spacebar, shift, and backspace to prevent them from wobbling.
One key at a time
However, nothing compares to the experience – and the sense of achievement – of constructing a keyboard from scratch using a DIY kit, which is the focus of this article.
Please keep in mind that premium DIY kits, which are typically sold via groupbuys through regional vendors, have shipping times that can extend for months. During the pandemic, for instance, some took years to manufacture and ship.
Groupbuy keyboards are typically only available for a short period of time. One such example is the TKD Cycle 7, an FRL (function row-less) TKL keyboard, selected here to demonstrate the actual build process.
Tools required include a pair of metal tweezers, a small screwdriver, a small paintbrush, and dielectric grease, along with specialty tools like a switch remover and keycap puller. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Before starting, builders will need a few tools, some of which they may already have, like a pair of metal tweezers, a small screwdriver, a small paintbrush, and dielectric grease.
However, you will also need specialty tools like a switch remover and keycap puller – these are sold online by custom keyboard stores, which also stock all-in-one kits with everything you need.
Inspect the case to check for any cosmetic blemishes or manufacturing defects in the aluminium. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Step 1: Start by taking inventory of the components in the kit, ensuring that everything’s complete before moving forward with the build. Also, inspect the case to check for any cosmetic blemishes or manufacturing defects in the aluminium.
Step 2: Now you need to check that the printed circuit board (PCB) is working properly by connecting it to a computer using its USB port, typically a Type-C connector. Then, using tweezers, carefully place each prong into a switch hole while ensuring contact with the metal pads on the PCB.
Carefully test the PCB to make sure everything is in working order. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
When the tweezers touch the contacts, they complete the circuit on the PCB, and the corresponding key should register on the computer screen or in testing software such as EK Switch Hitter and Via.
This step is critical for verifying the functionality of the keyboard’s electrical circuits before proceeding with the assembly of switches, so make sure to test every key.
If any issues arise during this step, don’t hesitate to contact the keyboard’s regional vendor for assistance.
Once you’re confident that everything is functioning properly without any defects, it’s time to proceed with assembly.
Get rid of ‘stabiliser rattle’ with a layer of dielectric grease. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Step 3: Apply a layer of dielectric grease to the L-shaped part of the wire before inserting it into the housing to eliminate “stabiliser rattle”, which is a loud metallic ticking noise that occurs when stabilisers are not properly tuned.
Exercise caution, as excessive grease application can cause key presses to feel sluggish and squishy. Expect that this process will require some time, involving multiple rounds of adding and removing grease to finely tune the stabiliser and eliminate any rattle.
An assembled stabiliser. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Step 4: Start with the stabilisers. These consist of three parts: a stabiliser wire, the stem, and the housing. When assembling, the stem goes into the housing, and then the L-shaped part of the wire should snap into the housing. Ensure that you complete this process on both sides.
Cycle 7 requires four sets of stabilisers, although the quantity required may vary depending on the number of modifier keys on the keyboard.
A PCB with a stabiliser for the spacebar installed. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
Steps 5 and 6: After completing the greasing process, proceed to install the stabilisers on the PCB for the specific modifier key. Orientation is not a concern, as the size of the installation holes restricts their installation to a single direction.
Depending on the stabiliser, this could involve just snapping them into place or screwing them in.
Pop on a switch and keycap to make sure there isn't too much or too little grease on the stabiliser. — AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star
An optional step involves lubricating the stabiliser stem to make key presses smoother with a lubricant that does not damage plastic, like Krytox 205 grade 0, which is commonly used by the community. This industrial-grade lubricant is commonly used in the aerospace, automotive, and semiconductor industries.
Another switch-related modification involves installing switch films, which are thin layers of plastic designed to prevent the top and bottom of the switch’s housing from hitting each other when pressed. This is typically only a concern with cheaper switches that have lower factory tolerances.
Step 7: The rest of the build should be relatively straightforward: grab the plate (aluminium in this case), align it with the PCB, and pop in the switches.
That's it, the keyboard is fully put together and ready to type on. — CHRISTOPHER FAM/The Star
Here’s where builders can add in foam to tune the acoustics as desired as the build progresses. Cycle 7, like many other custom kits, comes with a pack of foam for the back of the case as well as between the plate and PCB.
Since Cycle 7 is using a hotswap PCB (meaning that switches can be swapped in and out on the fly without soldering), gently push in the switches while supporting the hotswap sockets on the back with another hand or by placing them on a flat surface.
For soldered PCBs, ensure that the switches are pressed in flush with the plate and PCB so that everything remains straight when it is secured in place with solder.
After installing all the switches, insert the PCB into the case. The steps for this will vary depending on the keyboard, as the mounting mechanism will be different for each model.
For Cycle 7, the case contains a daughterboard – a separate circuit board that has to be connected to the main board – that needs to be hooked up to the back of the PCB via a cable, which can be finicky to install due to its short length.
Finally, sleeve the gaskets into the designated space on the plate before snapping the top part of the case and all the keycaps into place.
Some keyboards may require a different connector type for the daughterboard or not use one at all, while others may not use gaskets at all, necessitating that users screw everything in to finish a build.
Now sit back and admire your creation, knowing that every detail has been carefully considered and executed according to your preferences.
Then begin tapping away, relishing in the personalised typing experience that your custom keyboard brings to every keystroke.
