Weaving through Vietnam's Hoi An

If your idea of a perfect vacation is to whiz through several locales, taking in the view from an air-conditioned bus, then Vietnam’s Hoi An is probably not for you. But if you like to amble through cobblestoned streets and cycle in the countryside, then come along for the ride.

WITH greasy juices running down my chin as I slurp up the remaining mouthfuls of my caolak noodles, I gaze at my new friend and say glassy-eyed, “Vinh, you’re my Hoi An Tripadvisor.”