I’VE been sitting still for an hour, watching, listening, in the dark. Macaques swing through the cliff-top trees opposite, the drilling of cicadas has begun. Frogs take up the chorus below, the river rushes ahead, gibbons whoop in the distance. Even the leaves are noisy, falling around the deck of my beautiful treehouse with a thud. Stars appear to rush towards me; fireflies twinkling in the Takian trees.
I’m staying at Our Jungle House in Khao Sok – Thailand’s largest national park, near Phuket. Run by social entrepreneur Bodhi Garrett, it’s a model of ecotourism but doesn’t shout about it. What you see is tasteful accommodation, all soft lighting and wood carvings while, in the background, they’re quietly building schools and developing community-based tourism.